I’ve crashed parties before. And I’ve crashed dates. It’s often an innocent gesture that leads to hugs and laughs, but regardless, my presence was quite unexpected.

When I visited Dresden, Germany this past weekend, I crashed the biggest party of my life. In fact, it was so congested that my meager presence went completely unnoticed as I scurried around the cobblestone streets trying not to get trampled by the massive crowds of drinking and dancing people.

Visiting Dresden was a last minute decision when I realized I had a free Sunday. It was my destination due to the fact that I had passed through it multiple times during my bus rides to other countries, and that it was only 24 euro for a roundtrip train ticket. It didn’t take much convincing to make the 3.5 hour train ride to this small, historical city on the Elbe and explore the town, monuments, and parks. After I arrived I walked to the main town square to see the Dresden palace, opera  house, and cathedral. It was a much smaller city than I expected, and since it was a Sunday the town seemed to be subdued in a lazy stupor where people lounged at cafes for brunch, napped in the shade, and skipped stones in the Elbe.

Dresden cathedral

Dresden palace courtyard

Beach along the Elbe river

Opera house

My impression of a lackadaisical town dissipated once I crossed the river and started walking towards Neustadt. I had dropped a pin for the location of a small shopping neighborhood that was recommended by travel bloggers that was located a few kilometers from the city center on the opposite side of the Elbe. So after splashing around in the Elbe I headed into town.

I didn’t make it 3 blocks when all of a sudden music, people, and color exploded before my eyes. Families were eating lunch at tables placed in the streets, friends were sipping beer while sprawled on couches on the sidewalks. Doors to homes were open to keep the stream of food flowing, and backyards magically transformed into dance floors. DJs hung from balconies while crowds of people danced below them in the streets. Food carts with homemade cuisines lined the sidewalks and people migrated towards the few shady spots to get out of the blistering sun. What the heck was going on?

After darting down a side street to avoid the sun, booze, and reverberating beats, I stumbled across a cute array of connecting courtyards that housed cafes, shops, and restaurants. I sat down, ordered an iced coffee, and chatted with the waitress, who – surprisingly – did not have a German accent. Turns out she moved to Dresden a year and a half ago from San Francisco to help a friend operate several wine bars he opened. While it was supposed to be a temporary gig, she fell in love with the town and plans on moving there permanently — and learning how to say more than “the bathroom is outside” in German!

Thousands of people crowded the streets in Neustadt

The madness that I walked into was an annual, weekend block party called the Bunte Republik Neustadt (BRN) that is the biggest neighborhood festival in the entire country. It is celebrated to honor the birth of the Republic of Neustadt in the 1990s after the reunion of East and West Germany. At this time many young people were discouraged with the new capitalistic system and feared the societal changes. They rebelled against the system and developed their own Republic, complete with their own flag, currency, monarch, and ministers.

The BRN logo is Mickey Mouse. He was on their flag in the 1990s and still represents freedom for most Dresdeners.

DJs and bands played from balconies above the crowds

The BRN was a revolt against conventional society and while the currency and monarch have since disappeared, the counter-culture mindset and young, rebellious attitudes have persevered. Neustadt is, quite simply, a hippie town.

My day trip concluded with a fabulous meal at Coselpalais, the Grand Cafe and Restaurant. Located in an ancient baroque style building that was prepared after World War II, the cafe is the birthplace of hundreds of pastries. A mix of locals and tourists can be found dining at the restaurant patio, sipping cocktails and espresso. I don’t usually splurge on food, but I finally treated myself to a really nice dinner and dessert.

Coselpalais

Dresden was a last minute trip. I went with no plans and no expectations. I sat by the Elbe with my toes in the water, ate ice cream, joined in the party in Neustadt, and took a nap under a tree. I met a fellow American, almost missed a train connection, and drank a milk coffee that had the best froth in the world.

Dresden threw a lot at me in one day. But I rocked that town; I crashed Dresden.