A City Divided: Belfast

Belfast is a city with a troubled past. Looking back just 20 years, one would see the city as still frequented with terror attacks by the Irish Republican Army. Armored vehicles of British soldiers patrolled the streets. Belfast was simply not a safe place to be. While the division within the city is still present, Belfast is now considered safe for tourists. I visited Belfast last summer. During my day in the city, I visited the Titanic Museum and toured the various landmarks of Belfast. I also was able to enjoy a delicious dish of Irish stew.

Our first stop for the day was the Titanic Museum. The museum, which was only opened in 2012 (for the 100th Anniversary of the sinking), is built on the site on which the Titanic was built. The people of Belfast were very proud of the ship they had built and were possibly more devastated than anyone when news of her sinking arrived. The museum tells the story of the Titanic, from its construction to the sinking, while also filling in the background of the city of Belfast and the various passengers aboard the ship. I was really impressed with the ingenuity of the museum. The exhibits were very interactive, with one part even consisting of a slow rollercoaster ride that explained the process of building the ship. Special effects added the sensation of heat and various smells to the experience, really making me feel like I was present as the ship was built a century ago. The museum was both amazing and somber, with the realization that all of these incredible things aboard the ship, along with about 1,500, slipped beneath the waves of the North Atlantic, not to be rediscovered until 1985.

A look at the exterior of the Titanic Museum in Belfast

A look at the exterior of the Titanic Museum in Belfast

The slipway where Titanic was built, with our cruise ship in the background

The slipway where Titanic was built, with our cruise ship in the background

Moving on from the Titanic Museum, we next toured the city of Belfast, seeing both the beautiful and ugly parts of the city’s troubled past. As we drove along, signs of Belfast’s past division remained evident. Thirty-foot-high “peace walls” divide Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods. These were crucial to preserving the peace during the “Troubles”—the period from 1968-1998 that saw the highest level of violence and terrorism between Nationalist and Unionist groups in Northern Ireland. These same walls are now covered in murals promoting various civic causes, peace being chief among them. Yet, while the violence of the Troubles is gone, tangible signs of division in Northern Ireland still remain. Other than the thirty-foot walls that still divide the city, maybe nothing makes this more evident than a drive through the Unionist part of the city. The Union Jack (the flag of the United Kingdom) literally flew from every flagpole and Union Jack bunting stretched across the street. This kind of patriotism is rarely seen outside of the United States and is certainly very foreign to Europe, making it a very odd sight.

Along the right side of this street runs one of the many 30-foot-high peace walls that separate Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods.

Along the right side of this street runs one of the many 30-foot-high peace walls that separate Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods.

Some of the artwork that graces smaller peace walls in Belfast

Some of the artwork that graces smaller peace walls in Belfast

Belfast has some nice features, however. Queen’s University sits on a gorgeous campus right in the middle of Belfast and is one of the best universities in the UK. Nearby are the Belfast Botanic Gardens. A stroll through the gardens revealed hundreds of beautiful, different types of flowers and plants. The smell wafting through the air and the amazing color variety served as a stark contrast to the gray, bleak areas of the city near the peace walls.

Queen's University in Belfast

Queen’s University in Belfast

We also stopped for lunch at a local restaurant towards the middle of the day to enjoy a wonderful bowl of Irish stew. Irish stew consists of lamb, potatoes, carrots, and onions. Now I must say I am biased towards anything with lamb, but this Irish stew was incredible. The lamb was so tender and the potatoes and carrots were very fresh. Irish cuisine may be plain compared to that of other countries, but it does make for very good comfort food.

Delicious Irish Stew From: http://downtonabbeycooks.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/irish-stew-serving.jpg

Delicious Irish Stew
From: http://downtonabbeycooks.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/irish-stew-serving.jpg

Belfast is definitely not a city where most people would choose to vacation. Belfast is not a scenic or beautiful city. It is a city with a painful and troubled past. It is a city still divided. The opportunity to learn about the city and its past is worth the trip though and will leave any visitor with a better understanding of the Irish people, no matter which part of the Emerald Isle they live in.

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Venice of the North: Stockholm

As I awoke, I peered out the ship’s window. To my surprise, dozens of small islands seemingly floated past the ship. While I was asleep, our cruise ship had entered the outskirts of the Stockholm archipelago. Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, is built upon fourteen of the larger islands of the archipelago, at the mouth of Lake Mälaren, as it flows into the Baltic Sea. A portion of my mom’s side of the family originated from the Southern part of the city, Söderort, leading to their surname Soder. I visited Stockholm about six years ago. During my stay, we toured the Vasa Museum, visited the Swedish Academy, which presents the yearly Nobel Prizes, and explored a 750-year-old Norman church in the nearby small village of Sigtuna. At one point, I also enjoyed a wonderful lunch of roasted chicken breast.

One of the approximately 24,000 islands of the Stockholm Archipelago.

One of the approximately 24,000 islands of the Stockholm Archipelago.

The beautiful Stockholm skyline

The beautiful Stockholm skyline

Our first stop of the day was at the Vasa Museum. The Vasa was a massive warship built for the King of Sweden in the 17th Century. As we progressed through the museum, our tour guide described how after the Vasa was completed, it was shown to the king. The king, however, thought it to be too small. So the shipbuilders set to adding on to the ship. Upon presenting the “finished” product to the king once more, he again said it was not large enough. This continued a few more times until eventually the Vasa was massive enough for the king’s liking. Unfortunately, as our tour guide informed us, the ship was made incredibly unstable by all of these expansions. Only 18 minutes into her maiden voyage, the Vasa would slip beneath the waves and sink to the bottom of the Baltic. The ship was then raised in 1961 and placed in its current home at the museum.

The Mighty Vasa From: http://images.visitstockholm.com/df/640/df640f68-bc01-479b-b344-34c21ca035e5/rectangle_big_retina.jpg

The Mighty Vasa
From: http://images.visitstockholm.com/df/640/df640f68-bc01-479b-b344-34c21ca035e5/rectangle_big_retina.jpg

Next, we ventured to downtown Stockholm for a city tour and a visit to the Swedish Academy. Stockholm is without a doubt one of the most colorful cities that I have ever been to. Buildings are painted in various bright colors—doubtlessly adding needed color during the long Scandinavian winters. Walking through the winding streets of the city reveals numerous small shops and a view into the lives of the Swedish people. Moving to the city center, we arrived at the Swedish Academy. The Academy presents all of the Nobel Prizes awarded yearly. Well, with the exception of the Nobel Peace Prize, which our tour guide informed us the Swedes graciously allowed the Norwegians to present. If you sense rivalry and hostility in that statement, keep in mind that it was probably the tamest comment of the sort that I heard while in Stockholm, though nothing can compare to the Swedes’ dislike of the Danes. But that is another story for another day.

The colorful streets of Stockholm

The colorful streets of Stockholm

The Swedish Academy presents the yearly Nobel Prizes.

The Swedish Academy presents the yearly Nobel Prizes.

Our last stop was at the small village of Sigtuna on the outskirts of the city. Here, we visited a 750-year-old Norman church. Walking through the remains of the chapel, I imagined looking upon parishioners from the 13th Century, crowding in the space to worship God. I tried to imagine what it must have been like being a Christian, not only at this time, but in Sweden, a land not long removed from paganism. Visiting churches and seeing how the architecture varies by region and time period is one of my favorite parts of travel. Each church has its own unique style and appeal.

The 750-year-old Norman church in Sigtuna.

The 750-year-old Norman church in Sigtuna.

Prior to visiting the church, we also broke for lunch in Sigtuna. Lunch was nothing special, but boy was it good. The main dish was roasted chicken, covered by a layer of melted cheese. It was served with a side of freshly cooked potatoes and fresh fruit. While it was by no means the most elaborate of the meals that I have enjoyed abroad, it certainly hit the spot and served as a nice break on such a long day of touring.

Stockholm is one of the many homes of my ancestors. The city may not be known for its history or historic landmarks as much as many other European cities, but it makes up for it in its beauty and the Scandinavian people’s simplistic, laid-back way of life. Stockholm is a place that should be on anyone’s bucket list.

Next Week: Belfast

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Living on the Edge: The Amalfi Coast

Visualize the most breathtaking town on Earth. Now keep that image in mind until the end of this blog post. For me, the towns of Positano and Amalfi, along what is known as the Amalfi Coast, are by far the most visually stunning places that I have ever visited. On my visit to Amalfi four years ago, we spent the day driving the coastline and exploring the towns and villages that dot the Amalfi Coast. I also enjoyed my first taste of true Italian pizza.

The sun rising over the Amalfi Coast.

The sun rising over the Amalfi Coast.

Our ship docked in Naples on the morning of our drive along the coast. After loading onto a bus, we departed Naples and headed onto the highway. As we drove, our tour guide for the day passed the time by telling us the history of nearby Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius. While I was obviously familiar with the story of Pompeii, I found it interesting to hear some of the recent archaeological discoveries of the site, which is always turning up new secrets of the area’s Roman past.

Eventually we left the highway, and the roads narrowed significantly. We began to climb slightly in elevation, and it was clear that we were heading towards the coast. What I saw next simply stunned me. Rounding a bend in the road revealed not only the glistening Tyrrhenian Sea below, but also the hillside town of Positano ahead. Positano is completely built upon the hillside and terraces down to the sea below. Beyond the engineering questions that came to my head, I wondered how difficult it must be to get around in the town. Everything required using long, narrow stairways. Going anywhere was bound to be a hike.

Positano

Positano

Passing through Positano, we continued along the coast until we reached the namesake of the entire area: Amalfi. Amalfi is much flatter than Positano but is nonetheless still built along the hillside. Here, we exited the bus. After looking at the boats docked offshore, we then walked the streets of Amalfi, popping in and out of various stores. Regardless of where I’ve been, my favorite part is always when you have time to walk around on your own for a while. Hearing the foreign tongue of passersby, looking into shop windows, and smelling the scents of the town: that’s when you feel fully immersed into a culture.

Amalfi

Amalfi

Walking the streets of Amalfi revealed various shops and stands, including this fruit stand.

Walking the streets of Amalfi revealed various shops and stands, including this fresh fruit stand.

Speaking of scents, whilst perusing the various shops of Amalfi, I was enticed by the scent of pizza coming from one shop. I was able to enjoy a REAL Italian pizza, made the way it is supposed to be made. The pizza was very tasty. The major differences between Neapolitan (pizza was invented in Naples) and New York-style pizza, for example, were that the crust and sauce were much thinner. Biting into it, I could tell that the ingredients were much fresher than what we have Stateside. The tomatoes atop the pizza were very fresh and juicy. I also burned my tongue. I guess some things never change.

Real, fresh Italian pizza

Real, fresh Italian pizza

It’s said that a picture speaks a thousand words, but the beauty of the Amalfi Coast leaves you speechless. The hillside towns stretching down to the lapping coastline below still frequent my dreams. I hope to someday return to the Amalfi coast and maybe spend a week or two living in one of the towns. So the question is, has the picture in your mind of the most breath-taking place on Earth changed?

The beauty of the Amalfi Coast is unparalleled.

The beauty of the Amalfi Coast is unparalleled.

Next Week: Stockholm

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Walking in the Footsteps of the Greatest Generation: Normandy

June 6, 1944. The fate of Europe and the free world hung in the balance as more than 100,000 Allied troops stormed the beaches of Normandy. This day, which would go down in history as D-Day, was the beginning of the end for Adolph Hitler’s Nazi Germany. Today, the beaches of the Normandy region in France are relatively peaceful. However, they are still marked by permanent reminders of the crucial battle that was fought on this hallowed ground. I was privileged to visit Normandy last summer. During this day that I will never forget, we toured Gold Beach, where I enjoyed a crepe, Pointe du Hoc, and the American military cemetery at Omaha Beach.

Our first stop of the day was Gold Beach. Gold was one of the five code-named beaches that Allied forces landed at on the morning of June 6. Utah and Omaha were American beaches and Gold and Sword were British beaches, while Canadian troops landed at Juno Beach. Gold is situated in front of the town of Arromanches. Upon first arriving, we visited the museum, which explained not only what happened on June 6 but also focused on the Mulberry harbor that was built and extended out from the beach.

Looking back up at Arromanches from Gold Beach

Looking back up at Arromanches from Gold Beach

The British constructed large concrete blocks that were towed across the English Channel and then sunk into the water off of both Gold and Omaha Beaches. This created an artificial harbor that could be used for landing troops, equipment, and supplies until the Allies could capture a French port. The American Mulberry at Omaha was severely damaged in a storm in late June 1944 and was abandoned in favor of the port of Cherbourg, which was captured at the end of the month and made serviceable beginning in late July. For the British however, the Mulberry harbor at Gold would serve as the main port of supply until December when the Belgian port of Antwerp was liberated. Exiting the museum, we walked down to the beach. I was astounded by the sheer size of the mulberries, many of which still litter the beach. Walking up to one segment, I thought about the genius of the idea: being able to create this artificial harbor serviced the entire invasion force, which strengthened into the millions in the weeks and months after D-Day.

Putting the size of the mulberries in perspective

Putting the size of the mulberries in perspective

Prior to leaving for our next stop I was able to enjoy a delicious mid-morning snack—a crepe. I have had crepes in the U.S., but once again, nothing can compare to having the real thing. The crepe was steaming hot as I bit into it and the melted butter rushed into my mouth. And of course, what crepe would be complete without a rich French roasted coffee to wash it down?

A delicious crepe From: http://www.discoverfrance.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/crepes1.jpg

A delicious crepe
From: http://www.discoverfrance.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/crepes1.jpg

Our next stop was Pointe du Hoc. Pointe du Hoc is a cliff right along the coastline, which the Germans fortified as a part of the Atlantic Wall. In order to eliminate the large gun emplacements atop the cliff, Army Rangers landed on the narrow beach below; they then used grappling hooks to scale the sides of the cliff and reach the German guns above, at great human cost. As I walked through the bunkers and looked over the edge of the cliff, I could not imagine what kind of heroism and extreme devotion to one’s country it would take to do what the Rangers did on D-Day. Pointe du Hoc is often overshadowed in the tale of the battle, but the sacrifice made here cannot be forgotten.

The remains of a bunker at Pointe du Hoc.

The remains of a bunker at Pointe du Hoc.

The cliffs at Pointe du Hoc

The cliffs at Pointe du Hoc

Our last stop of the day was Omaha Beach. After driving along the beach, the most famous of the landing sites in American lore, we headed to the American military cemetery. Walking the grounds of the cemetery brought back memories of the Punchbowl on Oahu and Arlington National Cemetery outside of Washington. However, the cemetery at Omaha had a greater impact on me than either of these. Perhaps this is only because I am older now, but the effect of seeing endless rows of crosses and stars of David stretching out in every direction made me very emotional and put me in a somber mood.

A monument at Omaha Beach

A monument at Omaha Beach

Another monument at Omaha Beach

Another monument at Omaha Beach

As I walked the rows, I thought of the ultimate sacrifice that these men gave for our freedom so that everyone at home might be spared the horrors wrought upon the European continent. I thought of my Grandpap, who fought in the Pacific during the Second World War. I thought of other family and friends who served in the war. As I thought, I realized that though this cemetery only held the remains of those killed in the early part of the invasion of France, their comrades in arms are slowly passing at home. The Greatest Generation gave so much for America’s freedom. They do not have long left, and they deserve our sincerest gratitude.

Rows of trees leading to the American military cemetery at Omaha Beach

Rows of trees leading to the American military cemetery at Omaha Beach

Rows of crosses at the American military cemetery at Omaha Beach

Rows of crosses at the American military cemetery at Omaha Beach

Next Week: The Amalfi Coast

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A Greek Paradise: Corfu

A few weeks ago I talked of my personal paradise: the Scottish Highlands. If the heather on the hillsides doesn’t move you, there is another place that I have been to that may please you better. Corfu is a Greek island in the Ionian Sea that, along with a few surrounding islands, forms the northwestern-most part of Greece. Average temperatures in Corfu obviously far exceed that of Scotland, and Corfu also offers white, sandy beaches. During my visit to Corfu about three years ago, most of the day consisted of a taking a scenic drive around the island, though we also found time to tour a medieval Greek Orthodox monastery, and having a delicious lunch of authentic Greek salad (more on that later).

Scenic Corfu

Scenic Corfu

Corfu is without a doubt one of the most scenic places that I have ever been. The warm Mediterranean climate makes Corfu very comfortable at all times of year and never too excessively hot. The day of our visit was absolutely perfect, just over 80 degrees with a slight breeze. Driving along the waterfront, we saw numerous beautiful beaches and classic architecture. The water in Corfu is without a doubt the clearest water I have ever seen and has the most stunning and distinctively blue color. We then disembarked for a period in the town of Kerkira. Strolling through the streets of the town, I was struck by its quaintness, the friendliness of the people, and its beautiful setting, with palms swaying in the light Mediterranean breeze.

A beach on Corfu

A beach on Corfu

Leaving Kerkira, we next headed to Paleokastritsa, a medieval Greek Orthodox monastery. The monastery sits on a mountaintop overlooking the rest of Corfu. The monastery was built in the 13th Century and is today still home to Orthodox monks. As we walked through the gardens surrounding the monastery, monks traversed the area as well. One monk walked over to the steeple and rang the monastery bell rhythmically. Our guide told us of how the bell was used to signal the other monks that it was time for certain tasks to be performed. Walking on, we entered into a chapel where a mass was currently underway. As the scent of incense wafted towards my nose, I looked on in awe at the golden Orthodox icons on the walls of the chapel, thinking back, also, to my time in St. Petersburg. Orthodox Christianity has always been fascinating to me, due to my dad’s upbringing in the Russian Orthodox Church. I could not think of a more striking setting for such a place of worship as atop this beautiful vista.

The steeple of the Greek Orthodox Monastery on Corfu.

The steeple of the Greek Orthodox Monastery on Corfu.

Greek Orthodox Icon

Greek Orthodox Icon

Moving on, we stopped for lunch prior to heading back to our ship. In America, we often change things “for the better.” When it comes to Greek Salad, however, oh boy were we wrong. Most restaurants in the U.S. that serve Greek Salad serve lettuce, with cucumbers, tomatoes, and peppers, among other toppings, with a crumbled feta cheese and balsamic vinegar. Having had authentic Greek Salad, this being without the lettuce, I can attest that we need to revert to the original Greek Salads. The fresh ingredients of this salad were a perfect combination of flavors on my tongue, the balsamic vinegar adding just the right amount of flavor.

Greek Salad From: http://www.mediterrasian.com/graphics/JPEG/greek_salad2.jpg

Greek Salad
From: http://www.mediterrasian.com/graphics/JPEG/greek _salad2.jpg

Corfu is a beautiful place. While most may think of Athens when thinking of Greece, memories of Corfu instantly flood to my mind. Corfu is a place where I would definitely welcome a return visit.

Next Week: Normandy

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Gondolas as Far as the Eye Can See: Venice

As I looked about, our gondolier paddling along behind me, I took in the Venetian sunset. Venice is a city of 118 islands connected by bridges and separated by canals. No cars traverse the city’s streets, but gondolas crowd the canals and pedestrians the roads. Venice is quintessentially Italian, from its people, to its architecture, to its food. Upon visiting Venice three years ago, I toured the city both by foot and gondola, seeing many famous landmarks, including the Piazza San Marco and the Ponte di Rialto, and later went to the Murano Glass Factory. I also was able to sample a fine dish of lasagna.

View of the Grand Canal from Ponte di Rialto

View of the Grand Canal from Ponte di Rialto

One of the many cathedrals in Venice.

One of the many cathedrals in Venice.

One of the great things about Venice is that it is very easy to walk. Pittsburgh may be known as the “City of Bridges,” but Venice is not far behind. Walking anywhere in the city takes you over countless bridges as you move from island to island. The first place that we went as we explored Venice was the Piazza San Marco. If you’ve seen pictures of Venice, then it is very likely that you have seen the Piazza. Coming from the Grand Canal, the street opens up into a grand plaza that is the cultural hub of the city. The plaza is surrounded by various shops, churches, and Doge’s Palace. Doge’s Palace was the seat of Venetian royalty prior to Napoleon conquering the republic in 1797. The architecture of the palace and other surrounding buildings is simply stunning. The grand buildings made me realize the pride that the Venetians had. Venice was an independent republic for far longer than it has been a part of Italy and was once one of the richest cities in the world.

View of Doge's Palace from a gondola

View of Doge’s Palace from a gondola

While walking is the main means of transportation, gondolas are without a doubt Venice’s most famous means of transportation. Gondolas are a swift way to get to any part of the city. They also provide a spectacular and different view of Venice. As we paddled along, I was especially struck by the Ponte di Rialto, a 16th Century bridge spanning the Grand Canal. The bridge is another of Venice’s most recognizable landmarks. Continuing on we passed underneath the Bridge of Sighs. This bridge connects Doge’s Palace, and the courtroom within, to the prison across a canal. Our gondolier told us that it was named due to the fact that convicted criminals would sigh as they got one last look at Venice and daylight before entering the dark prison for the remainder of their sentence.

Ponte di Rialto

Ponte di Rialto

The Bridge of Sighs from the water

The Bridge of Sighs from the water

A criminal's last view of Venice before entering the prison connected to Doge's Palace.

A criminal’s last view of Venice before entering the prison connected to Doge’s Palace.

Finishing our tour of Venice by water, we next went to the Murano Glass Factory. Glass objects are very common in our everyday lives. Seeing how these items are made was an amazing experience. I marveled as glass maker blew through a tube, expanding the glass. He then spun the glass, used a plier-like instrument to pull it, and crafted a gorgeous vase. Thinking back, I am still amazed at the skill and artisanship that goes into make a single glass item.

Making glass

Making glass

A finished product

A finished product

While in Venice, I also managed to sample tremendous local dishes. My favorite was by far was lasagna. While I am no Garfield, I may be the next closest thing. Lasagna is one of my favorite meals. So naturally, when in Rome—or Venice in this case… The pasta was amazing, but the best thing was the sauce; it was so thick and rich. I could not help by smile to myself as I ate the most amazing lasagna that I have ever had. And, while it was not as good as the Florentine variety, I threw in another gelato for good measure.

Venetian Lasagna From: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_7c3qSI37BgM/TNmVN_c8d8I/AAAAAAAABJ0/3b3PPopjtmk/s1600/IMG_2359.JPG

Venetian Lasagna
From: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_7c3qSI37BgM/TNmVN_c8d8I/ AAAAAAAABJ0/3b3PPopjtmk/s1600/IMG_2359.JPG

Venice is an incredible place. The canal system provides for swift transportation throughout the city and the lack of cars makes the city that much more quaint. Venice is another one of those bucket-list places that everyone should see before they die. I only hope I can return one day.

Next Week: Corfu

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A Highland Paradise: Scotland

If you have ever watched the movie Braveheart, you have seen paradise. No, it’s not a white, sandy beach in the South Pacific. No. it’s not a field of Tuscan sunflowers at sunset. It’s the Scottish Highlands. I visited the Highlands and Inverness, the capital of the Highlands region, last summer. In the course of my visit, I toured the Highlands, visited the historic city of Inverness, and walked the legendary battlefield of Culloden. I also enjoyed my first taste of a Scottish tradition: shortbread.

Loch Lomond in the Scottish Highlands

Loch Lomond in the Scottish Highlands

The Scottish Highlands are a truly unique place. As our tour bus drove through the winding roads in the north of Scotland, I marveled at the green mountainsides, the clouds obscuring many of the peaks. Sheep dotted the slopes, leading down to small streams running between the mountains. I thought back to the scenes in Braveheart and pictures that my parents had taken when they visited nearly twenty years before. I thought of my ancestors, the Robinsons, who, as part of the Gunn clan, traversed these very mountains for centuries, battling both the English and other rival clans. Others may prefer a beach, but this is my paradise.

The Scottish Highlands

The Scottish Highlands

After finishing our tour of the Highlands, we continued on to the city of Inverness. Inverness may not have all the flash of Edinburgh or Glasgow, but it is a charming, small city of less than 50,000 people. Settled along the River Ness in Northern Scotland, the city is overlooked by Inverness Castle, which sits on a hill across from downtown. Though the current castle was completed in the early 19th Century, a castle has sat on the site since the 11th Century. The town itself has various Celtic shops that sell kilts in every clan’s tartan pattern. The day we were in town, Independence Day in the U.S., was military appreciation day in Scotland. Thus, we were there to witness a parade of bagpipers and drummers, along with hundreds of local military veterans. The quaint little town of Inverness offers everything that is quintessentially Scottish.

Inverness Castle

Inverness Castle

Military Appreciation Day Parade in Inverness

Military Appreciation Day Parade in Inverness

After departing Inverness, we headed to Culloden battlefield. Culloden was the site of the penultimate battle of the Jacobite Rising in 1746. The Scottish clans supported the return of the Catholic Stuart family to the English throne and the overthrow of the ruling House of Hanover. Culloden saw a resounding victory for the House of Hanover and the end of the Jacobite threat. Culloden was the first non-American Civil War battlefield that I have visited. As I walked the field, I could not help but be struck by the beauty of this place. And yet, young men fought and died here, fighting for a cause most non-Britons have never heard of. Like all battles of this time, I was amazed that these men came at each other in lines, facing volley after volley from the enemy, staring death in the face. Culloden is a powerful place, one that is seminal in British history.

Culloden Battlefield

Culloden Battlefield

My visit to the Highlands also introduced me to a classic Scottish food: Scottish shortbread. Shortbread looks very simple. Do not let its simplicity fool you though. Biting into a shortbread wafer sends a wave of smooth, milky flavor throughout your mouth. I instantly fell in love with shortbread. The only problem is, though you can find Scottish shortbread in the U.S., it just is not quite the same as in Scotland.

Scottish Shortbread From: http://cdn.images.express.co.uk/img/dynamic/1/590x/ALAMY-Shortbread-487643.jpg

Scottish Shortbread
From: http://cdn.images.express.co.uk/img/dynamic/1/590x/ALAMY-Shortbread-487643.jpg

My visit to the Scottish Highlands is one I will never forget. The Highlands are the home of part of my ancestry. The Highlands are historic. The Highlands are paradise.

Next Week: Venice

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St. Petersburg: City of the Tsars

Russia. A land wrapped in mystery and intrigue for thousands of years. When one thinks of Russia, thoughts of the Kremlin, the Cold War, and a frozen Siberia come to mind. While Moscow is the capital of Russia today, prior to the Bolshevik October Revolution of 1917, the capital of Tsarist Russia from the early 18th Century was St. Petersburg. I visited St. Petersburg about six years ago. My visit entailed touring the immaculate Catherine Palace and perusing the famous artwork of the Hermitage. For lunch, I enjoyed a traditional Russian lunch.

First I want to begin by saying that I did not get the Russian experience that most of us think of. When my dad went to Russia in 1992 right after the collapse of the Soviet Union, he experienced Moscow in the dead of winter. Going in the summer, I expected cooler temperatures, maybe around 70 degrees. I was wrong. St. Petersburg, and all of Northern Europe, was experiencing a record heat wave. The high during our visit was 102 degrees.

The Church of the Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg

The Church of the Spilled Blood in St. Petersburg.

Despite the heat, I was able to enjoy the beautiful Catherine Palace. Named for Catherine the Great, the palace served as the summer residence of the tsars. The gardens outside of the palace were gorgeous and exhibited colors that I had never before associated with Russia. The insides of the palace were even more incredible, however. I have never seen so much gold in my life! Putting aside my personal views on communism, seeing the grandeur in which the tsars lived while their people suffered made me understand the appeal of revolution a little bit better.

Catherine's Palace

Catherine’s Palace

Another part of my trip was a visit to the tsarist Winter Palace. The Winter Palace was stormed during the October Revolution, taking a seminal place in Soviet lore. Later, the palace was converted into the world-famous art museum the Hermitage. I have never been a real lover of art, but touring the Hermitage, I nonetheless greatly appreciated the history throughout the building. The building itself was a symbol of communism’s triumph for so long, and yet, it now houses one of the greatest collections of art in the world, second to maybe only the Louvre. I thought about how the Soviets easily could have destroyed the building, or the Catherine Palace, or any one of numerous other historic buildings throughout Russia. And yet, they preserved the history of Russia and managed to incorporate these buildings as museums for the people. This is perhaps the greatest legacy of Bolshevism.

The Hermitage From: http://www.saint-petersburg.com/images/virtual-tour/hermitage3.jpg

The Hermitage
From: http://www.saint-petersburg.com/images/virtual-tour/hermitage3.jpg

Russian cuisine is not one that ranks highly on my, or I would imagine most people’s, lists. Nonetheless, I enjoyed my meal. We ate lunch at 1:00, which is a traditional time for Russians to have their main meal of the day. As such, our lunch was divided into three courses. The first course, even on a hot day, was a cup of soup, in this case a thin, beet-based broth. It was surprisingly tasty, the sweetness of the beets setting my appetite for the main course. Next, the waiters, dressed in long-sleeve white jackets, brought plates of steaming chicken breasts with sauce, freshly steamed green beans, and boiled potatoes – a Russian staple. The final course was a sweet, white cake, all washed down with coffee or tea, or in my case, compote – a sweet drink made from boiled fruit.

Russian beet soup From:https://38.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ls41uoArWD1qm6v50.jpg

Russian beet soup
From:https://38.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ls41uoArWD1qm6v50.jpg

St. Petersburg is a city of tremendous culture. While Russia’s recent Soviet past brings thoughts of frozen Moscow and the Cold War, St. Petersburg is a vibrant city. Though I hope to travel in other parts of Russia sometime as well, St. Petersburg is a place that I would definitely return to.

Next Week: Inverness and the Scottish Highlands

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You’ll Never Walk Alone in Liverpool

I have been fortunate to go to many amazing cities in Europe and North America. However, I do not think I have ever been as excited to go anywhere more than Liverpool. Liverpool has two large draws for me: The Beatles and Liverpool Football Club. My trip to Liverpool last summer consisted of a combination of visits to Beatles sites and to the home of Liverpool FC: Anfield. It then closed with a visit to the Liverpool Anglican Cathedral. Also while in the city, I enjoyed a traditional English meal of bangers and mash at the Albert Docks.

The first part of my visit to Liverpool consisted of a tour of Beatles landmarks. We first went to the childhood homes of each of the four Beatles. Ringo and George both came from very small terraced houses in the poorer areas of the city. John and Paul, conversely, lived in large, single family homes in the wealthier parts of the city. The general impression that I gained during this portion of the trip, however, was that Liverpool, and Merseyside as a whole, is by no means an affluent area. Despite John and Paul’s greater family wealth, none of the Beatles really came from much.

Ringo's childhood home.

Ringo’s childhood home.

George's childhood home.

George’s childhood home.

John's childhood home.

John’s childhood home.

Paul's childhood home.

Paul’s childhood home.

We then traveled to the church where John and Paul first met. In the church’s graveyard, we saw the graves of Eleanor Rigby, Father McKenzie, and John’s Aunt Mimi, who raised him in his mother’s absence. We also went to Penny Lane, where we saw the “shelter in the middle of the roundabout” and also went into the barbershop described in the song. Lastly, we visited Strawberry Field. All of these places have been ingrained in my consciousness since I was a small boy and listened to the lyrics of the Beatles’ songs. Seeing the locations that inspired the lyrics gave the songs a whole new meaning and gave me a better understanding as to what they represented.

Tombstone at Eleanor Rigby's gravesite.

Tombstone at Eleanor Rigby’s gravesite.

Penny Lane

Penny Lane

Strawberry Field

Strawberry Field

After our morning tour, we travelled to Anfield to take a stadium tour. Anfield has been the home of Liverpool Football Club since 1892. Walking into Anfield, you walk through a gate under the words “You’ll Never Walk Alone.” This has been the anthem of LFC since the 1960s when Gerry and the Pacemakers, another British Invasion band from Liverpool, covered the song from the 1945 musical Carousel.

Statue of famous Liverpool manager Bill Shankly outside of Anfield.

Statue of famous Liverpool manager Bill Shankly outside of Anfield.

After a short introduction, we were taken to the Centenary Stand. From here, we were granted a vista of the whole stadium. The famous Spion Kop, named for a battle in the Boer War, stood to our left; the Main Stand, which is currently under renovation to expand the stadium’s capacity to 54,000, stood to our front; lastly the Anfield Road Stand was to the right. Our guide talked especially about the Kop, which though now an all-seater, used to be a standing section. The current capacity of the Kop is 12,500. Prior to its conversion to an all-seater stand in 1994, the Kop was often known to hold about 36,000 people in the same amount of space. I tried to imagine the sheer crush that had to be felt in the midst of all those people and could not fathom how anyone could breathe.

The famous Spion Kop.

The famous Spion Kop.

Finally, we toured the Anfield Museum, which contained the history of Liverpool Football Club. It was actually a great day to be at the museum as a special collection had just opened. Steven Gerrard, Liverpool’s longtime captain, had just retired less than two months prior. To commemorate his retirement, Gerrard loaned a collection of mementos from his career to the museum. Though I have not been a fan for relatively long in terms of the club’s history, I understand the importance of the Liverpool-born captain to fans from Merseyside and around the world. Anfield was an amazing experience. Now I just need to go back for a game.

Part of the Steven Gerrard exhibit in the LFC Museum.

Part of the Steven Gerrard exhibit in the LFC Museum.

Our last stop of the day was the Liverpool Anglican Cathedral. As I have written previously, I have visited both the Vatican and Westminster Abbey. Though both are better known and significant in stature, I cannot imagine any cathedral in the world being as stunning as Liverpool Anglican Cathedral in terms of sheer size. The tower of the Cathedral extends 331 feet into the air. This made me feel so small inside as I looked up to the top. The stained glass in the cathedral was also immaculate. I was also able to climb to the top of the tower. From this pinnacle, I could see all of Merseyside, including Anfield, the Albert Docks in downtown, and my favorite Liverpool building, the Royal Liver Building. My guide also pointed out that in one direction, you could see Blackpool, a town about 30 miles to the North. In the other direction, I could see Wales. The Cathedral was a perfect way to end the day.

The Liverpool Anglican Cathedral

The Liverpool Anglican Cathedral

View from atop the Liverpool Anglican Cathedral.

View from atop the Liverpool Anglican Cathedral.

As for my lunch, we went to the Albert Docks after departing Anfield. Here I ordered a traditional English dish: bangers and mash. Bangers are a special type of English sausage, while mash is mashed potatoes. I have had bangers and mash before. I have never had bangers and mash, let alone possibly any food, as good as what I had that day at the Albert Docks. The mashed potatoes were so creamy and the bangers were perfectly spiced and tasty. Also, the dish included a red onion gravy that further added to the great taste and texture.

Bangers and Mash From: http://www.roadtripsrus.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Bangers-and-mash.jpg

Bangers and Mash
From: http://www.roadtripsrus.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Bangers-and-mash.jpg

My day in Liverpool is one of my favorite days I have ever spent. It may not be as flashy as Rome, Berlin, or London, but Liverpool is a special place. I cannot wait to return.

Our tour guide and me in front of the Royal Liver Building.

Our tour guide and me in front of the Royal Liver Building.

Next Week: St. Petersburg

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Florence: The Birthplace of the Renaissance

When most people think of Italy, they picture the Roman ruins, including the Coliseum, the canals of Venice, or the vineyards of Tuscany. However, thinking of all of these places, most people forget about perhaps the most culturally significant city of modern Italy. The birthplace of the Renaissance: Florence. I visited Florence about three years ago, and while I enjoyed the history of Rome and the beauty of Venice, Florence is my favorite Italian city. My day in Florence consisted of an early morning visit to Pisa and its leaning tower, and a city tour that included visits to the Ponte Vecchio and the Duomo, the latter of which provided some of the most spectacular pictures I have ever taken. I also met one of my true loves in Florence: gelato.

Florentine buildings along the Arno River.

Florentine buildings along the Arno River.

After disembarking our ship, our first visit was to the small town of Pisa on the outskirts of Florence. The Leaning Tower of Pisa is one of those things on everyone’s bucket list. The town of Pisa itself was very small and was obviously completely centered on the cathedral, of which the Leaning Tower served as its bell tower. Our tour guide told us of how Pisa and other surrounding towns competed with each other to build the tallest bell tower in the region. Pisa’s, of course, was built on unstable ground and began leaning over time. Our guide described how in the late 1990s, the lean was corrected slightly by the addition of counterweights, thus ensuring that the tower would not collapse anytime in the near future. Though the tower did not turn out as its builders intended, I nonetheless found the humor in the fact that Pisa gained its notoriety for this failed structure.

Yours truly proudly displaying a terrible towel in front of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Yours truly proudly displaying a Terrible Towel in front of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Upon leaving Pisa, we continued on to Florence. A walking tour took us first to the Ponte Vecchio. The world-renowned bridge spanning the Arno River was a truly amazing, picturesque site. As our tour guide recounted the history of the bridge, I pictured merchants during the Renaissance period, working out of the shops built onto the sides of the bridge, whether butchers, jewelers, or artists. I found the bridge incredibly unique as I have never seen a bridge utilized for anything other than transport, while the Ponte Vecchio not only traversed the river, it also provided shops for hundreds of merchants.

The Ponte Vecchio

The Ponte Vecchio

We travelled through the streets of Florence until we reached the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Flower, better known as Duomo. The Duomo is the pinnacle of Renaissance architecture, with its dome being the largest brick dome ever constructed. After telling us the history of the Duomo, our tour guide told us the bell tower we were standing near offered stunning vistas of the Duomo and the city. She also informed us that we had thirty minutes until we had to depart for the ship and that the tower unfortunately usually took forty-five minutes to climb to the top.

The Duomo from street level.

The Duomo from street level.

Naturally, my mom wanted pictures of the Duomo from above. While initially reluctant, I agreed to climb as quickly as I could to take pictures. I am so glad that I took the time to climb the tower. The views provided from the top of the bell tower were indeed stunning. I was able to capture some of my favorite pictures that I have ever taken. Amazingly, I did it all in twenty-five minutes. Exiting the tower, I accidently stepped on an “ancient statue” that a group of African peddlers were selling near the tower. Though one of the peddlers promptly asked for $100, he let me go after I told him I did not have any money.

The Duomo and Florence from above.

The Duomo and Florence from above.

As we strode back towards our bus to return to the ship, I had my first taste of real gelato. Gelato, an Italian version of ice cream, was actually invented in Florence. The lemon gelato, which I enjoyed that day, was the perfect way to cool me down on that scorching Italian afternoon. I have had gelato in other parts of Italy and back in the United States, but nothing can come close to comparing to the gelato in Florence.

Lemon Gelato

Lemon Gelato http://www.tasteofhome.com/recipes/lemon-gelato

Florence is, to this day, one of my favorite cities that I have visited. Its beauty and history combine to give it an incredible vibe. Florence is one of the few places that I have visited where I think I could actually live.

Next Week: Liverpool

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