The Secret of the West- Why Powder Mountain U.T. is the Hidden Gem of the Rockies

In 2009, the Pittsburgh Steelers beat the Arizona Cardinals in the superbowl, winning their 6th title. That fateful sunday was the first time I went skiing, barely able to stay up on the bunny hills. I instantly fell in love, and the next monday my mom let me skip school to spend the whole day at our local mountain, Ski Roundtop. Throughout the day, I worked my way from a beginner to being able to make it down every trail but the hardest one (http://www.skiroundtop.com/lifts-trails). In the next few years, I spent my nights after school learning all the secrets of the mountain, wanting more. Finally, my parents decided something had to change.

Fig. 2: My local mountain, Ski Roundtop. The only trail I couldn’t ski down as a kid was the farthest to the left, Gunbarrel. Credit: SkiRoundtop

On my first trip skiing anywhere besides Ski Roundtop and the nearby Seven Springs in Pittsburg, I had the pleasure to travel out to Salt Lake City, Utah, to visit Powder Mountain. It is a small resort, known mostly by the locals. My grandfather grew up loving the mountain, and highly recommended it for us to take a trip to. My first time waking up in our condo at the top of the mountain, I was blown away (https://www.powdermountain.com/groups-and-weddings/lodging). The “mountains” i had skied on before had done nothing to compare me for the jagged peaks that towered above the tree line and the clouds.

Fig.3: A cat-skier takes a few skiers where the lifts can’t. Powder Mountain is known for its incredible terrain that can be accessed by cat skiing. Credit: MountainYahoos

Powder Mountain is a particularly unusual resort because it starts at the top. That is, the lodges are at the top, and you ski down the mountain first, then ride the lifts to get back up. The mountain is named accurately, as there are miles and miles of terrain and hardly any people to ski it. A common tagline of the resort is having “nonexistent liftlines” and I am happy to say I agree. One of the best parts of the resort in my memory was the vast amount of backcountry, or ungroomed, terrain they had available for beginners. At most western resorts, the newer skiers stay towards the groomed trails, and the experts are rewarded with the unmarked powder stashes. Here though, there are flat open bowls and gentle glades My trip to Powder Mountain was my first and one of my only experiences of a true “powder day”. Even as a young 9 year old, I was weaving in and out of trees, slowly becoming more comfortable at forging my own path to the bottom.

Filled with a unique culture and vibe, Powder Mountain has feeling of its own small community. The nearby town of Eden gave me the sense of the Wild West. I wouldn’t have been surprised if a cowboy had come riding down mainstreet (https://www.timbermine.com/). Everyone seemed to like each other, and you got the idea that all the guests loved to ski there. At one point, the Paradise Express lift comes so close to a snowy cliff that there is a sign stating “Please do not jump off the lift”. I remember thinking that was the weirdest and funniest thing as a kid. Who would ever want to do something stupid like jump off a ski lift? Sadly, my naive attitude about skiing, and life, has changed, as I now regret tons of dumb stuff i’ve done on the ski slopes, but those are stories for another day. Powder Mountain will forever stay in my memory as my first ‘real’ ski resort, and I can’t wait to one day return.

Groomed Terrain: 3/5

Backcountry Terrain: 5/5

Crowds: 5/5

Accessibility: 4/5

Resort Amenities: 3/5

Ticket Value: 3.5/5

Panorama: 4.5/5

Final Rating: 4.0/5 – “A local’s paradise”

An Oasis in the Mountains- What Makes Whiteface N.Y. and the Nearby Lake Placid Tick

In 1980 during the height of the Cold War, with tensions between the U.S.S.R. and United states at a critical peak, a match of the ages was set to be played. While previously just a small town nestled in the Adirondack Mountains of New York, Lake Placid had been transformed to a bustling center of global cooperation to host the 1980 Winter Olympic Games. In what’s now a household name, the U.S. men’s hockey team defeated the Soviet Union to win the gold medal in the “Miracle On Ice” (The most important battle of the Cold War). When I visited Lake Placid, I had the opportunity to see the very historic Herb Brooks Arena, in which the game was played. A few friends and I were actually able to sit down for free and watch a local hockey tournament. Instantly accepting us into the crowd, the locals welcomed us in as we became the young kids biggest fans (https://www.ushockeyhalloffame.com/page/show/831562-the-1980-u-s-olympic-team).

Fig: 2. The American Men’ Hockey Team Wins Gold. Credit: History

Lake Placid was home to the winter games in 1932 and 1980, and it shows. To this day, the town still has the feel of an olympic village. Walking around the frozen lake, I could imagine thousands of people packed into the cozy environment from around the world, filled with their nation’s pride. Encircling the 122 acre Mirror Lake (the real Lake Placid is much larger and located next to the town), all manners of shops, restaurants and bars line Main Street. When I stayed in town, I had the pleasure of meeting local skier Joe Kostelac, who was kind enough to share some of his favorite spots with me. “If you want somewhere to eat, you gotta go to Smoke Signals. The atmosphere is warm and pleasant, right next to the lake. The food’s great and they give out generous portions. Tourists love heading to Bear Essentials and Locker Room 5 to buy clothing and souvenirs commemorating the 1980’s hockey team. Oh and of course, if you like Crepes, you have to try Big Mountain Deli and Creperie. Some of the best I’ve ever had.” For me atleast, my favorite thing to do in town was to simply gaze across the lake at the lights dotting the opposite shore, white fluffy flakes slowly piling on the ground.

Fig: 3. Whiteface Mountain. Credit: Tripsavvy

Of course, the crown jewel of Lake Placid is the ski resort Whiteface Mountain. With an elevation drop of 3,430 ft, it is the tallest resort on the east coast. All though it’s not necessarily my favorite mountain in the northeast, there’s nothing to complain about (https://www.whiteface.com/mountain/trail-map).  Home to the Cloudsplitter Gondola (which quite literally takes riders above the clouds), Whiteface boast impressive terrain, with steep long runs that reminded me of Colorado. The gondola rises fairly high above the ground, crisscrossing deep wooded valleys as it climbs the mountain. There’s even an operational bobsled track left over from the winter olympics that you can ride down, if you have the guts.

Fig: 4. Mirror Lake. Credit: WikimediaCommons

Just walking around the village, it felt like a Christmas movie. A large Ice Skating rink, were you can learn (and fall) with your friends, is located in the center of town, right across from the Olympic Museum (http://www.lpom.org/). Looking up and seeing the five classic rings, I could imagine myself an athlete, training for my opportunity of a lifetime. Another highlight of my trip was getting an up close look at the ski jumping complex, towering 90 meters into the air. I always wondered what it would be like try that, yet I’m thankful I’ll never find out for myself. Lake Placid was one of my favorite places to stay, and I think Joe described it best when he said “It’s like the real life version of the Hallmark Channel”.

 

Groomed Terrain: 4/5

Backcountry: 2/5

Crowds: 4/5

Accessibility: 2/5

Resort Amenities: 5/5

Ticket Value: 4/5

Panorama: 3.5/5

Final Rating: 3.5/5“The resort is special, but the town is a true winter wonderland…”

 

 

The Skiing Capital of the West- Vail C.O., America’s Premiere(?) Ski Resort

It’s 8:30 a.m. The air is cold, yet dry, the gentle breeze not quite piercing your jacket. You were aware how busy Vail can get, so you got up extra early this morning to make the quick drive from your hotel to the Lionshead Vail Square to catch the first lift at 9. The narrow valley the resort is situated in doesn’t leave much room for a parking garage however; your spirits slowly sinking as you drive farther and farther from the lifts to find a spot. The walk from your car is intimidating. Everyone knows ski boots aren’t easy to walk in, but somehow all the people around you seem to be managing. As you balance your skis precariously on your shoulder and heave your over packed bag onto your back, the stores and restaurants of the plaza begin to tower around you. 5-star hotels rise even higher above them. A wide variety of foreigners circle around you, walking quickly and with a purpose, dressed so nicely you can smell the money. Finally you spot the lift: The Eagle Bahn Gondola in all its glory…. with 50 people already in line. Wishing you had just stayed home, you grudgingly get in line. Thankfully, your ticket was only $140 (https://www.epicpass.com/passes/epic-pass.aspx).

Blue Sky Basin
Fig.2: A snowboarder jumps off a rock in Vail’s Blue Sky Basin. Photo by Bjorn Bauer.

I don’t mean to paint to bad a picture of the resort. It certainly is premiere in every meaning of the word.The locals are premiere jerks, an air of entitlement surrounding them. Vail doesn’t attract the elite for no reason though, the terrain truly is immaculate. The front face of the mountain is designed much like a lot of other resorts, with long, generally flatter groomed runs, and a few trees and steeps scattered throughout, while the Back Bowls and Blue Sky Basin is really where the resort shines (Here is a trail map: https://www.vail.com/the-mountain/about-the-mountain/trail-map.aspx).  The back of the mountain is carved into six expansive bowls, each boasting countless untouched acres of snow. Generally, I found the bowls farther west more crowded. The Sun Up and Sun Down Bowls attract quite a bit of attention, having easy access to the front face. If you want to be alone head over to the Siberia and Mongolia Bowls (named appropriately)

Fig.3: The lift line one early morning at the High Noon Express. Credit: Gear Junkie

 

The Blue Sky Basin does it’s best to give off a true back-country experience, and I’m happy to say it does not disappoint. After crossing a small creak and skiing down a long valley, skiers are able to board the Skyline Express, taking them to 570 acres of virtually unmarked territory. The snow is deep and views impressive. I felt almost transported to another resort; the true west.

The Arrabelle
Fig.4: The Arrabelle at Lionshead Plaza is one of many luxury hotels located there. Credit: RockResorts 

While I criticized the Lionshead Square earlier, the infrastructure is frankly impressive. For being located practically 100 miles into the Rocky Mountains, it has the feeling of a downtown city. The food is great, and there’s plenty of shops to by t-shirts bragging: “I Skied Vail”. With only two lifts connecting the base area with the rest of the mountain, the plaza can become quite the choke-point early in the day. However, once everyone has the chance to spread out over the spectacular amount of acres, I didn’t have the constant fear that someone would run into me. Instead of driving and parking, I would recommend catching the Epic Mountain Shuttle (https://www.epicmountainexpress.com/) from wherever you’re staying (Denver, Frisco, Eagle, etc.) to the mountain. Oh and if you get hungry, try and eat at the Two Elk Lodge. It’s a beautiful log building filled from floor to ceiling with windows, and located on the ridge connecting the two faces of the mountain. It makes the day almost worth the cost of the ticket.

Groomed Terrain: 4/5

Backcountry: 5/5

Crowds: 1.5/5

Accessibility: 3/5

Resort Amenities: 5/5

Ticket Value: 2.5/5

Panorama: 4.5/5

Final Rating: 3.6/5 -“For people more interested in how they look than what they’re doing.”