Bowstring Hemp, Devil’s Tongue, Jinn’s Tongue, Mother-in-Law’s Tongue, Snake Plant… Sansevieria are a succulent genus native to West Africa and South Asia named after the 16th-century botanist-Prince of Sansevero. According to the Spruce, Sansevieria were favored in ancient China for their connection to Eight Gods and were found in a wide variety locations for the eight virtues the plants were believed to impart on buildings and their owners. However, in more modern times, these hardy towers (or low-lying “bird’s nests,” as you will see) are favored for their intriguing “snake-skin”-like patterns, ease of care, and air-purifying capabilities*.

Introduction

Sansevieria stands as a broader classification for a myriad species, with predominant cultivars falling into visual categorizations of height. Height variation exists on two levels: tall vertical and squat “bird’s nest.” Despite this wide assortment of sub-classifications (there are upwards of 120), only a few cultivars are common within the houseplant circuit, as noted by Plant Care Today.  The most popular of the readily-circulated cultivars is by far Sansevieria trifasciata, more commonly known as mother-in-law’s tongue.

Before I delve into the care requirements of said Sansevieria, though, be warned of a small pitfall which many novice plant-enthusiasts succumb to: the term “snake plant” is but a broad umbrella term which overhangs a plethora of species and does not precisely apply to one in particular!

Sansevieria Care

As stated by many plant care guides, these emerald spears are extremely easy to care for due to their tolerance for dry, low-light conditions.

Preliminary measures call for the addressal of what could be the most pressing matter: soil (and potting) needs. Given that sansevieria hail from warm, drought-prevalent climates, their preference in soils are those that are sandy and quick to drain. When re-potting after purchase (a practice I strongly suggest if purchasing from a bulk plant retailer), it is advisable to use a sand-based potting mix or one crafted specifically for cacti and succulents. “Sizing up” the pot in which the plant is housed is unnecessary, but transport to a clay pot is preferable, as it is primary practice to a allow plant’s root system to break its current pot before it is transplanted to one larger. If transplantation or division are on schedule for a specimen, though, springtime provides the most favorable conditions to do so.

The water requirements of sansevieria are relatively minimal as a result of their succulent nature, and because of their aptitude for water retention, specimens needs be watered only when the top (one-inch) layer of soil in their pot becomes dry. Unfortunately, the drought-tolerant nature which allows for the plant’s outdoor survival produces a risk of over-watering indoors. As long as standing water is drained from the base of the plant, though, the resulting effects of root rot can be avoided with ease. On a more curious note, however, the water-saving tendencies of this spiky bunch makes them quite hefty. Plant Care Today details that a 10″ (pot size) plant can have a mass of 11.3 kilograms!

As mentioned above, the sunlight and temperature needs of these green glories are relatively adaptable. In their natural habitat, specimens experience warm climates and lots of direct sunlight. Therefore, in order to best mimic the care Mother Nature imparts, sansevieria should be kept in locations with bright light and temperatures between 50°F and 75°F. Exposure to temperatures below this lower threshold will result in damage to the leaves and should be obviously be avoided.

While sansevieria do not absolutely require fertilization, they can nevertheless benefit from extra nutrients and will flourish when fed a diluted cactus mix during periods apart from winter.

On the topic of pests, sansevieria, thankfully, are similarly hardy. The only real sources of issue I encountered in my research were mealy bugs and spider mites, which can both be very easily remedied!

Aside

On a final note that is unrelated to care, though… sansevieria are poisonous to house pets and should BY NO MEANS be ingested! Please keep your furry friends away from these specimens!

 

 

* This link leads to NASA’s document entitled “Interior Landscape Plants for Indoor Air Pollution Abatement,” which is a bit lengthy, but nevertheless a curious read!

The fiddle leaf fig, known scientifically as Ficus lyata, is a towering tree native to the tropical rain forests of western Africa. Like many of their tropical natives, Ficus lyata can reach heights upwards of forty meters, which makes them, seemingly, quite the unfitting houseplant. Despite this dissuasive detail, though, fiddle leaf figs can be cared for within the confines of the urban jungle. (Made possible by careful training and trimming of the trees’ branches and roots, of course). In modern times, the fiddle leaf fig’s popularity has been on the rise due to the species’ violin-shaped leaves by virtue of their full, luscious appearance. However popular they may currently be, these topical specimens remain a rare bunch to care for due to their (sometimes) finicky care requirements.

Fiddle Leaf Fig Care

After completing some reconnaissance as per the proper forms of fiddle leaf care, I quickly discovered that the trees have extremely touchy root systems which respond drastically to the size of the pot they are placed in. All of the sources I confronted stated, multiple times for some, that a tree’s roots face shock when placed in a vessel too large for the proportions of its root mass. These authorities further provided that a tree should only be transplanted when a.) it has become (almost) too large to remain indoors or b.) its root mass literally protrudes from the top of the pot in which it is planted. If a transplant to newer, larger pot is necessary, it should occur only during the spring, when the tree will be in its natural growth cycle.

As per usual, indoor specimens lack the nutrients provided by outdoor mechanisms and therefore require fertilization. This should be done monthly during their growing season, which spans from February to September, and can be put on hiatus from October to January during the dormant season. Water-soluble fertilizer are preferable, as they can be diluted; fertilizer should not be applied at full strength and should be diluted to, at most, 50% its normal strength. In order to flush excess minerals from building up within potting soil, trees’ pots should be thoroughly flushed on a monthly basis, as suggested by The Spruce.

The water requirements of fiddle leaf specimens align with the usual houseplant M.O.: water when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Various resources suggested that plant caretakers refrain from watering their fiddle leaf figs on a schedule, as variations which occur in household humidity and seasonal sunlight impact the amount of water soil retains.

More general soil and water requirements dictate that fiddle leafs be potted with well-draining potting soil and that any standing water which may accumulate in the pot should be removed to alleviate the impact of root rot.

In regards to fiddle leaf figs’ sunlight requirements, moderation is the most fitting policy. The rain forest inclinations of Ficus lyata cause its needs for bright, indirect light, but occasional direct sunlight is not beyond the natural tendencies of specimens. In addition to protective sun measures, GardenGuides recommends that trees be rotated each week to ensure that a specimen grows vertically. During summer months (or any other period when the temperature falls anywhere between 15 and 20 degrees Centigrade), fiddle leaf figs can be brought outside to provide them with a more natural spectrum of natural light.

After considering these more general care tricks, it should be noted that more tender practices involve dusting the plant’s leaves to ensure they receive enough light for photosynthesis, as suggested by Shifrah Combiths, author of “Tips for Growing Fiddle Leaf Figs.”

Michelle Slatalla focuses on more drastic care tips to be used in the case of major tree ailments in her article “7 Secrets: How to Save a Dying Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree” on Gardenista, but for now, I will hope the basic care instructions I provided will suffice for any of your fiddle leaf friends’ needs!