One thing that is always constant is change; and hair is no exception. Usually, a decade can be identified by the hair styles shown in popular culture. But how has it changed over the past 100 years? In this post, I will give an in depth analysis of black hair over the past 100 years and how it has represented the decade they have occurred in.
The 1920’s was highly influenced by the Flapper lifestyle. Many black women had short, waved hair, or wore wigs, both being very popular. Hair was either in Marcel waves or were finger waved.
In the 1930’s, short wavy/ curled hair lived on with the addition of hair being straightened and then styled into these wavy/ curled styles. This new element of straight hair was also carried out by wigs or stitches (hairpieces), which are modernly known as weaves or extensions, helping to imitate straight styles.
Again in the 1940’s, women kept their short hair in style with added curls or straightened hair. The croquignole curl was very popular which was a slight variation of the marcel curl. Pageboy hair cuts were also popular, and they were a shoulder length bob with bangs that were straight with a slight wave at the ends. The emphasis on straight hairstyles was due to the lack of acceptance for natural hair during this era. In order for black women to fit in, straight hair was a must, which also meant many women were damaging their hair to maintain this “ideal” image.
The 1950’s was when black hair started to take a different path. Black nationalism was slowly on the rise, therefore, black people started to take back their identity and embrace the entirety of their ‘blackness.’ The realization that straight hair was due to Eurocentric beauty ideals, became a hot topic and many started to rebel against this popular, mainstream practice.
The 1960’s = the infamous Natural Hair Movement. In response to the politicized issue of black hair, black people started to rebel and were loud and proud of their natural hair. Natural hair became a symbol of rebellion and acceptance. Extra inspiration came with the rise of the black panther movement in which many leaders proudly wore their notorious afros. Many even noted that straightening of black hair encouraged the oppression that blacks were routinely subjected to.
The continuation of the Natural Hair Movement lived through the 70’s and the afro became fashionable. Many black celebrities started to support this new style and would wear it in fashion and on red carpets. Most notably, in 1973, Cicely Tyson appeared in Jet magazine wearing a traditionally African style of braids, which was a major groundbreaking magazine issue.
In the 80’s, the afro started to slowly fade and as it did the Jheri curl came in its’ fullest form. The Jheri Curl was the epitome of the 80’s and was invented by the termed Godfather of Hair, Jheri Redding and perfected and commercialized by Comer Cottrell. The style takes lots of chemicals to soften and loosen natural hair textures. It is similar to a perm, therefore, it took lots of maintenance. Personally, the Jheri curl is my favorite trend and something I am very aware of. It brings many memories of growing up and looking at the many pictures of my now, bald father in high school and his young adult life with a ferocious Jheri Curl.
The 90’s was the start to what we consider modern black hair today. Many black women started to explore with their hair and had various stylings they would wear.Though straight hair is still very popular among black people, braids became very popular and are still extremely popular today. An iconic 90’s looks goes back to box braids, especially with Janet Jackson’s style of them in the famous movie Poetic Justice. Pixie cuts worn by other stars like Halle Berry and Jada Pinkett Smith were also widely popular.
The 2000′s brought about a natural hair “revolution” through online communities from blogs and YouTube. Black women especially started to find ways to style their natural curly and kinky hair, as these new resources started to become more prevalent.
In the 2010’s to now, black hair is still ever-changing and becoming more diverse in styling than ever. Relaxers and other chemicals used to detain natural hair are being reduced, and natural hair products are starting to be more diverse and affordable to all. YouTube beauty gurus and curly bloggers are very popular and promoted in mainstream media. The range of styles is much larger for black people and it provides a greater sense of self-expression. After years of oppressive-inspired styles, the reclamation of black hair relates to the growing of societal acceptance and unity in embracing diversity.