Since I was little I lived near the ocean and was always a beach girl. Some people might think it is cliche to say that the beach/ocean is my happy place but to say the least it really is for me. Whenever I am at the beach I feel at home and it feels like a breathe of fresh air. I spend most of my time there (when I am home from school of course), whether it is cold or super hot day. My family and I are what is known as a “beach family”, we live 4 blocks from the beach and basically call it our home. It is such an amazing place to de-stress and take a break from everything. During the fall and winter it is normally not that crowded so my favorite thing to do is to do yoga close to the shore break and listen to the waves as they crash. Though it is cold, it is the only place where I can fully forget about all my worries.
You might be thinking, I thought this blog was about surfing. It is, I just thought I would give a little background about what the ocean means to me. Surfing has been a part of my life for as long as I can remember. It is one of my hobbies that I definitely enjoy the most and take for granted in the summer and early fall. The water can get pretty cold in the winter even when you are wearing a wetsuit so I barely go out during that time. Some of you might be thinking, I don’t even know the basis of surfing or wondering what I am talking about. The first instances of surfing was found in Polynesia in the 12th century and eventually the Polynesians brought surfing to Hawaii. After this, surfing became a very popular sport and spread across the entire globe.
If you are ever traveling a place where there is surf, don’t be afraid! It is not as scary as it seems. You just have to get out there and try it out. Your re going to fall and fail many times, but that is part of the entire process of learning. Here are a list of steps I made up to help you if you are ever in a place where there is surf:
- Spend 15-20 looking at the waves and how they break. It might sound dumb but it can really help you to notice what waves you should try and catch
- Grab a board and get out there! Typically for starters you will start with a foam board. This is the easiest board to use as a beginner.
- Paddle out where the waves aren’t breaking. Before going out make sure you realize where the waves aren’t crashing so it will be easier getting out.
- Paddle past where the waves are breaking.
- Once you get passed the waves turn your board around and face the shore. Once you see a wave starting to form paddle as fast as you can until you feel the wave pushing you with its force. Reminder: you may not catch the wave your first try, this takes practice.
- If you feel the waves energy pushing the board, congrats!! You caught the wave!! Now for the hard part.
- Pop up! Put your most comfortable foot first and ride the wave. Don’t look back!
Here is a visual for help: