Asturias is known for being lush and green, but at its far eastern reaches there is a place that is anything but, and that is Los Picos de Europa National Park, a towering massif of brilliant white limestone peaks. These mountains are extremely unique for a variety of reasons. They form a part of the Cantabrian Mountain range, which extends across northern Spain, and they are the tallest mountains in the Northern half of the Iberian Peninsula. Their name, Picos de Europa, or Peaks of Europe, comes from their proximity to the coast. Their white limestone faces were unmistakable to sailors returning from long voyages. As soon as they saw them, they knew they were in Europe. They are a dream destination for hikers and rock climbers, making them the second most visited national park in all of Spain.
Overview
Geologically, the mountains are very new, having been formed 300 million years ago (compare to 1.2 billion years ago for the Appalachian mountains and 1.7 billion for the Rockies), making them very steep and jagged. While technically one massif, the Picos are further split into three massifs: the Western (Occidental), Central (Central), and Eastern (Oriental). The Park is not completely in Asturias, as parts of it are located in neighboring León and Cantabria. Although they are not very tall, the mountains’ proximity to the coast makes them very prominent and difficult to climb. On some hikes, you can find yourself gaining 5,000 feet of altitude in just a few miles. The landscape changes as quickly as the altitude. The lower reaches of the massif contain ash forests, but the trees end quickly and abruptly. In the area above the tree line, vegetation is made up of shrubs and grasses, which grow in deceptively bumpy meadows known as vegas (yes, now you know that Las Vegas roughly translates to “The Meadows”). Several animals call the mountains home, such as bears, wolves, chamois, blackbirds, and vultures. 16 species of bat also call the mountains home, living in the extensive cave systems in the park. Small herds of cattle and sheep are also kept by the townsfolk in the vegas, whose nostalgic cowbells will become ingrained in the mind of any visitor. The meat and cheese products that are produced from these animals are extremely famous in Spain. Despite the presence of livestock, water retention is nearly impossible due to the mountains’ limestone make up. Only nine refugios, or mountain shelters, exist in the 400 square mile park.
Things to Do
There are several iconic hikes and climbs at the park. El Picu Urriellu is probably the most famous. A towering monolith of limestone, it is the most easily recognized peak in the park. Getting to the top requires a difficult climb with ropes and harnesses. Urriellu Shelter at its base is by far the most visited of the nine in the park. It was first ascended by the man who created the National Park, Pedro Pidal, the Marquess of Villaviciosa, in 1904. At 8,264 feet, it is one of the tallest peaks in the Park. The tallest peak in the park is also very famous. 8,690 feet in height, it is called Torre Cerredo. Another very popular activity at the park is called the “Anillo de Picos“, or the Ring of Peaks, where one hikes to each of the shelters in the park. Although you can start anywhere and end anywhere, there are three common routes that cover one, two, or all three massifs. The hikes are very long, steep, and tiring, but I think it is a fantastic experience.
Top: The central massif of the Picos de Europa, with Picu Urriellu front and center
Middle: The terrain those two cows are standing on looks extremely green and smooth from a distance
Bottom: Collado Jermoso Shelter, one of the nine in the national park
It might be because I live under a rock but I don’t think I’ve heard of Asturias. How do you know so much about it? Have you ever been there? Now that this part of Spain is on my mental map, I’d definitely be interested in visiting one day. When people talk about going to Spain, they usually go to Madrid and Barcelona, but it seems like Asturias is definitely the route for more nature oriented people as opposed to city oriented people. I didn’t know that Las Vegas translated to “the meadows,” and now I’m wondering what it used to look like over there. I think it’s really cool that Los Picos de Europa is a newer set of mountains, and I don’t think I’ve ever been anywhere like it.