Part I | Concept
For my concept, I thought it would be interesting to make a chess piece come to life or turn into something else.  I thought about the part in Alice in Wonderland, the movie, produced by Walt Disney studios in 1951, the male playing card servants that had a head and arms.  It was a creepy part of the movie and I thought I would do something similar with a king chess piece scan.  I would give the scanned king chess piece arms and later print it on the MakerBot Replicator.  I based my idea primarily on the surreal author of Through the Looking Glass, Lewis Carroll and his attraction with chess sets.  I took a king chess piece from a chess set I own and brought it into scan on the Makerbot Digitizer 3D scanner.  It made a digital 3D model out of my king chess piece object and the results turned out good.  To begin using the Makerbot Digitizer, it is essential to pay attention to lighting and make sure there are no bright lights in the camera’s field of view.  I learned how to use the MakerWare for Digitizer software to scan my object.  There are three light selections to describe your object, and I chose medium and then clicked start scan.  The chess piece began to rotate, and the lasers made a mesh of my object.

Part II | Iteration
To iterate my concept, I used the surreal chess set example as motivation for my design. There are a lot of cool looking examples for surreal chess piece sets online. I began drawing sketches on paper to populate how I envisioned the chess piece to look. Next, I imported the chess piece scan in MeshMixer. And to continue with my drawing idea of a surreal chess piece with arms, I used the icon on the left panel, Meshmix, to add an arm. I selected the second-choice style of the arm and put it into place on the chess piece. I closed all holes in the arm using the Analysis selection tool on the left pane in Meshmixer, then chose the Inspector option and selected Auto Repair All. Getting a second arm on the other side of the chess piece was tricky for me. To add a second arm to the surreal object, I had to choose Edit and then Mirror the object. This took some time and patience to get the arms positioned right on the chess piece. Once the arms were on, I thought it came out just how I envisioned it would. Next step was to print it on the Makerbot replicator machine.

Part III | Final
To wrap up and finish my Meshmix of the king chess piece with arms, I selected the entire object, made it into one solid, and reduced the polygon count to 7,000. I exported and saved my king chess piece file as a .OBJ format. I took the file to the Makerbot Replicator machine to print my 3D surreal object. From the three Boolean functions in modeling, I used the Union, also known as Join function as emphasis to my model. The arms and the king chess piece had a total volume of both pieces fused together as one object. Moving onto the Makerbot Replicator machine, I learned how to change out the filament and run it through the extruder. What the machine does when the file is to be printed, is heat up to 215 degrees Celsius, which is equivalent to 419 degrees Fahrenheit in order for the plastic to be melted and used. Next the extruder moves into position and begins printing the filament. My object took about an hour and a half to print. When it is all complete, the machine will ask you to print again or go back to the menu, so I chose to go back to the menu. Next you can remove the plate and work with a chisel tool to pry the object off of the plate. This was the most dangerous part of the job. After I pried my object off of the plate, I then removed all of the supports.

Using the 3D printer, I scanned a king chess piece to transform it from a tangible object to a digitized object. With my object in the viewport in Meshmixer, I went to View and Show Wireframe to show the edges of the polygons, to see where rough patches exist. To duplicate the king chess piece as a higher density mesh, I went to Edit and Make Solid, and clicked Accept. To diminish bumps in the mesh, I did control A to select the entire object, Edit and selected Deform Smooth. The next step was to reduce the polygon count also known as the number of faces. To do this I selected the smoothed mesh with control A and noted the number of triangles in the bottom right-hand corner which was at 18,922. I clicked on Reduce from the Select dropout menu and under the Reduce Target, selected Triangle Budget. Then below where it says Tri Count I typed in 7,000 and clicked Accept. Once this was done I saved the .mix file and exported another file as a OBJ that can import into Fusion or be uploaded to a 3D printer. I modified the clean scan with the scale and distortion case study. I clicked control A to select the entire king chess piece and then Select, Deform, and Transform to open the transform widget. here I pulled on the X-axis direction to distort the object to create 3-D anamorphic projection. In this lesson I learned what non-uniform scaling is of breaking aspect ratios among height, width, and depth.

King Chess Piece Modified Front View

King Chess Piece Modified Side View

King Chess Piece Clean Front View

King Chess Piece Clean Side View

This image shows the three dowel points.

For my final orthographic shoe drawing, I chose to slice the image into a cardboard stack, in a top to bottom orientation. I used three quarter inch round dowel rods and cut them into dowel pins to glue my cardboard stacks together. The purpose of utilizing dowel pins for my orthographic shoe cardboard cutout was to ensure each cardboard cutout aligned correctly on top of one another. Dowels have been around for many of years and are mentioned in the Bible. Dowels are designed as structural reinforcements and are mainly used as supports to hold levels of objects or materials together. In my orthographic shoe cardboard design stack, three dowels were conceived. One dowel was placed at the toe, another at the beginning of the opening of the shoe, and a third one at the end of the opening of the shoe. This was to ensure proper construction and stability of the cardboard cutouts. For improvement, I would alter the AutoDesk Fusion 360 rendering of the object in order for it to have more shoe-like shape. The corrugated cardboard design final turned out great, although it would be even better if I created a left and right shape of a shoe and a collar and quarter from the shoe. The collar and quarter being the space where you insert your foot into.

To apply my Vinyl cutter logo to the real world, I chose two items of mine to stick my logos onto. The first item I chose was a red binder from Staples and the second item is my 8.18 inch in diameter skateboard that I use to skate transition. Transition is known as moving from horizontal ground to a ramp or incline to perform cool looking tricks. Transition is popular from backyard pool skateboarding and vert ramps. On my skateboard I have Spitfire Classics 55-millimeter wheels, Thunder Trucks, size 148, 8.25-inch axle, and an 8.18-inch skate deck. I decided to place my logo on my skateboard because I already have a collection of stickers started on it and I thought it would be a nice feature to apply the vinyl sticker logo as well. The end result turned out really well and I’ve gotten compliments on how the logo looks professionally done. Applying and sticking my vinyl sticker logo on the red binder turned out looking good also. Just like my skateboard, I’ve gotten compliments about the logo on the red binder. Someone even told me the logo looks professionally done and could be used as a business’s logo. To capture the photographs, I used my Apple iPhone 8 plus. The images turned out looking good.