For the Love of Cheese

Everyone loves cheese.  Whether it’s stinky or mild.  Holey or solid.  White or yellow.  Much of America, and the world, have an affection for cheese.  One world-renowned cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano from the region of Emilia-Romagna in Italy, is often dubbed the “king of cheese”.  Much different from the white powdery parmesan cheese you buy in most US grocery stores, Parmigiano is the perfect combination of savory and sweet flavors that have been perfected over the centuries.  So, what makes the king of cheese worthy of such a title?

A Long Lineage

An ancient wheel of cheese discovered in Egyptian ruins in 2018. Source 1

The history of cheese is quite a long story to tell.  It is believed that some of the earliest cheeses were made more than 3200 years ago in Egypt, where it likely resembled modern feta cheese with a salty, crumbly texture.  As for Parmigiano, it was first developed during the Middle Ages(circa. 1250) by Benedictine and Cistercian monks in Emilia-Romagna who were seeking a way to utilize the abundant milk that was being produced.  After developing the process of curdling that we will discuss later, the early wheels of cheese were stored in a local salt mine.  In this mine, the cheese aged to develop its flavor, but also wbegan to absorb salt from chamber’s floors and walls.  

It wasn’t until 1612 that the Duke of Parma first sought to protect the cheese of his region.  Although Parmigiano Reggiano was special, there were still other cheeses very similar to it being produced in the surrounding areas.  In a deed, the duke declared that only cheese from the milk of Parma cows and produced in Parma could be considered true Parmigiano Reggiano or “of Parma (and Reggio)”.  This is considered to be one of the earliest designations of origin documented.

Making Royalty

A depiction of monks making cheese. Source 2

Much of the current process used to make Parmigiano has not changed since early monk’s developed it 800 years ago.  All of the milk the cheese producers need is locally sourced from pasture-fed cows.  The milk from these cows actually contains unique bacteria that are found nowhere else in the world that help give the cheese its unique characteristics.  

First, the milk is allowed to separate; the fat is used to make butter and the skim milk moves on.  Combined with the previous night’s skim milk, rennet, and whey, the milk is warmed and allowed to coagulate.  The curds are broken up by a large whisk called a “spino” and then heated to 131℉.  This heating combines the curds into a solid mass and kills off any unwanted bacteria while leaving behind the good bacteria from the grass.  Each batch can use upwards of 1100 liters or 300 gallons of milk to produce just two wheels of cheese.  

Each wheel of cheese gets a number of identifiers that proves it is genuine Parmigiano Reggiano. Source 3

At this time, each of the 100-pound wheels is placed into perforated forms to allow excess whey to be removed.  After draining, the wheyless cheese is removed and wrapped in a stencil to create the iconic dotted rind inscription in addition to burning in product information including the date, region, and producer.  Each wheel also receives an alphanumeric(QR code) that can be scanned at any time to track the wheel in its aging process. The now-branded wheels are left to float in a saltwater brine for upwards of 25 days.  It is during this time that the cheese begins to develop its iconic salty characteristics.  From brining, the cheese is sent to climate-controlled chambers to begin aging.  Throughout the process, the wheels are checked for quality and development.  Legal Parmigiano Reggiano must be aged for at least one year, however, the best(and most expensive) wheels are aged for upwards of three years.

Parmesan or parmesan

Now you don’t have to be Italian to realize that the cheese that we commonly associate with parmesan, the white snow we sprinkle on our pasta, is probably not true Parmigiano Reggiano.  You would be surprised to know that most of the “parmesan” in the United States is not true parmesan at all(and no, it is not just because of the cellulose).

Parmigiano Reggiano, or Parmesan in English, is a certified Protected Designation of Origin product in the EU.  PDOs are strict regulations and standards that must be met to receive the product title.  In the case of Pramigiano, much of what I listed above actually are these stipulations.  Being produced in Parma, Reggio Emilia, or Modena, cows being grass-fed, and aging for at least one year are just some of the many boxes that need to be checked before a wheel is certified.    

So what about the American snow cheese? Given we are not in the European Union, it is much more difficult to execute the certifications that pertain to PDOs.  Much of what we consume on a daily basis is considered “domestic parmesan”, or parmesan produced in the US.  Although, as you will recall, even the translation of Parmesan itself falls under PDO protection, and that is where the true trouble begins.  As it was during the 1600s, there is still great debate on branding cheeses as Parmesan or parmesan.  Notably, in recent years, Kraft, the producer of those green bottles of “Parmesan Cheese” failed in trademarking the iconic product in much of the world due to the power behind the true Parmesan name in the EU-the Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese.

Aging is often a major factor in determining price. Even domestic aged parmesan can be very close in price to PDO certified imported Parmesan. Source 4

The Legacy

Cheese will always hold a special place in the hearts of people throughout the world, even those who are lactose intolerant like me.  It is for that reason, plus the immense popularity of Italian food, that will keep Parmesan at the forefront of culinary controversy.  The Parmigiano Reggiano market is worth 2.5 billion dollar, and the counterfeit market is estimated to be worth just as much.  Although the product still faces branding troubles in the EU, it is on individual governments to respect the PDO that comes with true Parmesan cheese.  PDOs not only represent quality and standards, but they represent heritage and history, which are being disrespected in every instance in which they are ignored.