As we continue on this journey of cool tools, I want to bring it back to the days of old, to simpler days of cobblers and plague. This week, we are going to examine the lasting pliers: an essential tool in crafting leather shoes.
Before we get too deep into the tool, let me explain a little bit about the history and process of shoe making. Humans made coverings for their feet as early as 7,000 years ago, found in multiple regions across the globe. These early shoes were woven straw or plant matter, similar to a basket to cradle their feet as they traveled more expansive terrains. But these shoes were rather fragile, and constantly had to be repaired or changed, as well as uncomfortable.
The discovery of leather tanning expediated the evolution of footwear. Leather tanning is when hides of animals are soaked in chemicals- traditionally tannic acid- which turned the skin into a tough, stable material that was more durable and comfortable for these early shoe models.
Although people were not yet wearing their Louboutins and galoshes, the process with leather shoe making started took large steps around 1,000 years ago with the use of shoe lasts. These were molds to impersonate the shape of the shoe, which cut out leather pieces could then be stretched around and nailed to a board on the bottom, or the lasting board. And the way you accomplish this stretching is with the lasting pliers.
This funny looking tool that looks like it isn’t too sure if it is pair of pliers or a hammer actually accomplishes both. Once a last has a lasting board tacked onto the bottom, the pre-sewn “upper” (or leather walls of the shoe) is draped over it. A shoe adhesive is then coated all around the bottom of the lasting board and under the leather upper. Then, the shoemaker can use the lasting pliers to grab the bottom of the leather upper, and grip the hammer block the hammer block into the bottom for leverage as they stretch the leather down, bringing it under the last. At the bottom, they can then twist the tool for even more stretching and place a nail to then tack the leather in place.
They repeat this process for the entire perimeter of the shoe. Once tacked in, the remaining heads of the nails are hammered inward to add more tension to the leather and get a well molded, defined shape to the shoe. The leather glue mentioned formerly will then adhere to itself and set since it is very tacky. After it dries, the end of the lasting tool can be used to remove the nails, and with the last removed, the final shoe is revealed.
This board lasting process is tried and tested for old or high-end leather shoes, but there is new machinery and processes that can complete the task of making shoes in much less time and with greater efficiency. I am interested in this tool and process because I am making a pair of rare sneakers from 1985 that I have had my heart set on, learning about the materials and the shapes of the shoe. This tool and process has moved beyond just a covering to protect us, but rather shoes have become a way to express ourselves through fashion, and it has transitioned into a true artform.
Sources:
The Art of Shoemaking – Where It Began, Where It Is Now – Beckett Simonon
I think this is a very interesting blog, I never really thought too much about how shoes were made and what tools are used to make them. I definitely learned a lot about the origin of shoes through your blog. 7,000 years seems like such a long, though unusually short amount of time for shoes to have existed. I also think you are absolutely right in saying that shoes have become an expression of fashion in some senses as well as practical pieces of clothing that we have grown to not be able to live without. I am intrigued by your last paragraph- since I haven’t read any of your previous passion blog posts, are you a shoemaker yourself? How did you get into that hobby? Are you using the lasting pliers for making the rare shoe you mentioned? I think it is very interesting that you are into a hobby that I don’t find to be too common. I wish you luck in making your shoe!