For my first passion blog, I wanted to learn more about specific exercises that can be done to improve climbing while away from the wall. I want to know what I can do to improve my climbing even when I don’t have access to a wall. In this blog I am going to focus on upper body and arm strength.
Rock climbing is a sport that requires you to use every muscle group in your body. It simultaneously forces you to use balance, endurance, strength, and technique to complete difficult climbs. To increase my upper body strength in a way that is most useful for climbing, these are the exercises that were recommended:
- Push ups
- Pull ups
- Tricep dips
In the context of climbing, push-ups are recommended as a form of training called “antagonist training”. Antagonist training is working muscles that oppose others. Climbers use their biceps most often as they pull themselves up or into the wall, causing tricep muscles to oftentimes be underdeveloped. Doing push ups would increase my arm strength and also even out the development of my arm muscles, which can help prevent injury. Some climbs do involve pushing as well, so training triceps will be helpful no matter what. Push ups are a simple exercise I can do at home and I would benefit greatly from incorporating them into my daily routine. Tricep dips also fall under the antagonist training category, as they (obviously) train your triceps.
Pull ups require the use of most arm muscles used when climbing. Training pull ups would increase my strength in a way that is more directly related to climbing.
Forearm strength is another very important aspect of climbing. While climbing, you begin to feel very tight in your forearms, something climbers describe as being “pumped”. This tightness can be very uncomfortable after some time and inhibit your ability to climb effectively during a session. Training my forearms on days when I am not climbing will help improve my strength and endurance and allow me to climb better and for longer periods of time.
Two forearm exercises that were recommended were wrist curls and reverse wrist curls. Wrist curls are done by sitting down and placing your forearm on your leg with your wrist hanging off and palm facing up. Then, with a weight in hand, you curl your wrist upwards towards your forearm. Reverse wrist curls are the same, but with the back of your hand facing up. It is important to do both to train all areas of your forearm and ensure that all muscles are getting equal amounts of attention.
Finally, I am going to focus on grip strength. Obviously, using your hands is a crucial part of climbing, and one must have a lot of grip strength to complete long, difficult climbs.
Dead hangs, weight plate pinches, and finger extensions are three exercises I can do to increase my grip strength. All three of these exercises are simple and focus mainly on your hands.
Dead hangs involve hanging from a bar without moving for as long as you can. From the articles I read, it is recommended to hold the dead hang for a full minute to maximize its effectiveness and push your muscles.
Weight plate pinches involve pinching a plate between your thumb and other four fingers and raising it to your chest. You are meant to hold the weight at your chest for as long as you can until you feel your grip start to weaken.
Finger extensions are done with a band wrapped around all five fingers and pushing them outwards as far as you can.
https://www.trxtraining.com/blogs/news/grip-strength-exercises-for-rock-climbing
https://threerockbooks.com/10-off-wall-exercises-improve-climbing/
https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/developing-general-grip-strength/