Pardon My French

A mini-guide to Lebanon

Lebanon has long since been at the crossroads of competing empires and powers. Some would argue that the French influence in the country dates back to as early as the 16th century or the 19th century, when Jesuit missionaries began to establish French-language schools, including a well-known university. After World War I, the French acquired a mandate over the northern portion of what had once been the Ottoman Empire. In 1920, that region became what is today known as Lebanon. After decades of French rule, Lebanon gained independence in November of 1943. 

Given its historical importance and geographical standing, Lebanon is a diverse country vibrant with a coexistence of cultures, religions, customs, and traditions. 

Even though the French left in 1943, hints of the culture can still be seen in everyday life. Perhaps the most obvious to any visitor is the way French is intertwined with Lebanese-Arabic. You’d be pleasantly surprised to hear that many conversations start with the lively and famed “Kifak, ça va?,” or that many natives– Beiruti locals in particular– switch out “shrukan” for “merci.” 

History and language aside, there’s much to explore in this wonderful country– especially during the winter season!

Beirut   

Beirut– or Beyrouth– as it is often called by locals, is the capital of Lebanon. It has been historically referred to as the “Paris of the East” (sorry, Bucharest). 

So, you’ve arrived in Beirut. Start off by heading to your hotel. The Phoenicia Hotel is located downtown, making it a great place to stay for greater access to all the city’s great activities and places, including multiple restaurants by the corniche.  

Or, try the Villa Clara located in the neighborhood of Mar Mikhael. This boutique hotel is the epitome of chic and charming. In stark contrast to the luxurious opulence of the Phoenicia Hotel, Villa Clara radiates an air of old-world French elegance. Villa Clata’s location is also a bonus; Mar Mikhael houses numerous restaurants, cafes, shops, and art galleries. 

Once you’ve settled in, you can grab a bite at Couqley, which specializes in traditional French cuisine. After a day of sightseeing, you’ll want to pop by Barbar. They’re open 24/7 and are famous for their falafel and shawarma. 

After indulging in Lebanese cuisine, take a walk through the Beirut Souks located in the downtown area. Later, head to Martyr’s Square, one of Lebanon’s most important landmarks. From there, you can admire the Mohammed Al-Amin Mosque and the St. George Church.

During the winter holiday season, Martyr Square hosts VIP appearances, music, and a countdown to a Christmas tree lighting. If you happen to be in Beirut then, be sure to stop by Beirut Ice Skating for a lap or two around the rink. 

If Beirut is the Paris of the Middle East, then Mzaar is its Switzerland. 

Mzaar Kfardebian

Mzaar Kfardebian is about a one hour drive from Beirut. In fact, the capital city proves a fantastic starting base, as many major tourist destinations in the country are within one or two hours by car (yes, Lebanon is small, about ⅔ the size of Connecticut). 

Mzaar Ski Resort is the largest ski resort in the Middle East, with over 60,000 miles of ski runs. And even if skiing isn’t your strong suit, you can enjoy other activities such as ziplining, skidoo, snowboarding, snowshoeing, and randonnées– or you can always sit back and relax at one of the many restaurants located on the mountain. Enjoy zaatar markouk at Em Bashir or a salmon quiche at Le Relais.  

Byblos

Finally, heading north, we arrive in Byblos (Jbeil District). Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, strolling around Byblos is like falling through the pages of an ancient history book. The city is dotted with structures dating back to the times when the Phoenicians and Egyptians inhabited the place. Visit the Byblos Citadel and enjoy lunch at a seafood restaurant in the port. Again, if you’re there during the holidays, then the Christmas Village is a must-visit.