Welcome back to the blog! This is part three of my extra series and, by extension, part six of the overarching series I guess, so at this point, my extra series is now the same length as my “original” series! Anyway, today I will be exclusively discussing perhaps one of the most interesting topic relating to chickens – their hierarchal system. Believe it or not, yes, chickens are social creatures! Interacting with (mostly) other chickens helps them to develop into healthier adults, but it is also important to understand the power dynamic between them, especially if the flock is large or has at least one rooster in it.

We all remember back in high school how students would naturally split into different social groups to fit in with varying levels of popularity; for example, the stereotypical: sports kids, music kids, “smart” kids, “those” kids, etc.. The unspoken chicken hierarchy formally known as the “pecking order” (sometimes also heard in the world of business) is similar but less complex, more societal, less political, and more practical. Now, as one may expect, the pecking order is actually quite simple. After all, they are just a bunch of chickens. It conceptually exists, at face value, in a realm very much like other natural animal hierarchies, including lions and perhaps even humans in traditional scenes. How does it work? As long as there is more than one chicken, theoretically, a pecking order should always exist. Generally speaking, roosters will battle it out to see which will stay on top while the rest (hens and chicks) are grouped, ranked, and ordered by seniority (size and age). Insect hierarchy diverges from this model, but that is a story for another day. Note – there is no chicken that will “rank” the other chickens. It is through interaction that the hierarchy will be established. Additionally, roosters will rarely fight claw to claw. Instead, other means of showing off exist. Essentially, it is the equivalent of a gym – a lot of people literally flexing on each other and grunting in public.

Your chickens will also see you as a part of your flock. If you raised them, it should be no big deal as you are likely recognized as a natural leader already, so do not worry, but if you introduce a new rooster to your flock, you may have a more difficult time managing. If the rooster acts up, give ’em the ol’ one-two and beat the ever-living crap out of them while yelling things like “you are weak, ten-piece”, “I’m the captain now”, or even “KFC” if you are really feeling it. Does that sound brutal and like abuse? If you answered “yes”, congratulations, you are correct! I was just kidding about throwing hands, but in all seriousness, if a rooster offensively charges you, it is best to hold it down to the ground (ethically, of course) until it finally shuts up. It may take some physical strength to calmly pin a rooster down in a vulnerable yet safe position, but there is no need to be forceful at all. If you find yourself pulling a maneuver akin to the one that Gordon Ramsay used on Sasuke Uchiha at the end of Shrek V for forgetting the lamb sauce (shown left), you are doing it wrong. By repeating, you will be able to assert dominance. Yeah, that will go to show him who’s the real alpha boss around here. It may take a while for chickens to find their place in the order. This is why it is usually a bad idea to unexpectedly introduce new chickens of any qualification(s) to a flock without any previous exposure or warning whatsoever.

Logically, the role of the dominant rooster is to protect the flock. As such, a perk of being the dominant chicken is usually having ease of access for food (whether desired or not). Even other roosters will be forced to give respect, for confrontation is not common and many underlings will simply step aside in the face of a mammoth. Does this mean that the dominant chicken controls all? No, the notion that a chicken Napoleon will arise from the backyard is rather silly, but if necessary, aggression is an option – like the manner in which mother canines will discipline their young pups. Such social/physical aggression is rare in creatures like chickens, but it has the potential to become more and more varied as the species of organism becomes more and more intelligent – case in point, the human society.

Thanks for reading this post! Alas, I shall continue this series! Looking forward to the comments! I hope to see you next time.

Welcome back to the blog! This is yet another entry into my series on chickens, and this time around I will be focusing on different breeds of chicken in addition to how to choose a potential breed.

This is one topic that I have not yet touched on and honestly should have discussed earlier. Better late than never, though! Anyways, the breed(s) of chicken raised should reflect what is desired in the end. More specifically, consider whether or not something like meat is more of a priority, rather than egg production. Perhaps neither are important! There are a variety of different breeds to choose from; some are broody, others are exotic with fancy or expensive plumage, some provide efficiently robust-quality meat, and others offer efficient egg production. Even within the realm of egg production, there are factors such as size, color, intervals of egg laying, and much, much more. For example, if an assortment of eggs encompassing all colors in the white light spectrum are desired, go for the famously popular hybrid – the Easter Egger. Yes, the breed name is truly “Easter Egger”, and as the name suggests, it lays a variety of eggs with colors of the rainbow. One drawback of having this breed, however, is that – as a type of tradeoff – it seems like the level of egg production is lower than average. I am not completely sure as to what breed is used for commercial produce, but if you are looking for an aesthetically cute and interesting breed to show others, the native-to-China Silkie (shown in the bottommost image following the White Crested Black Polish image) is definitely the way to go and one of the most sought after “fancy breed”. I am not familiar with dogs, but they seem like the chicken version/equivalent of the Bearded Collie.

One common worry is whether or not having multiple breeds in a single flock together will be problematic and/or difficult to manage. I have not raised a flock with different breeds in it at one time, but I know people who have, and there did not seem to be any issues regarding the mixing and mingling of the chickens, and they get along quite well. Personally, out of my two “successful” flocks, I first raised black Australian Australorps and then…the “yellow kind” (likely the Buff Orpington). If buying chicks in person at a store like Tractor Supply, they likely have more common (stereotypical), cheaper breeds as opposed to exotic ones that are hard for people to get their hands on because the latter are generally not found suitable for practical use in farms. I highly recommend the Australorps. I had five, and every single one of them was so friendly with me (as most breeds of chicken are)! They have consistent pink/brown medium-sized egg production and have feathers that give off a jade-colored tint, or sheen. The other breed was not as friendly, but at least both were hardy which is what mattered the most to me when choosing. When I inevitably retire to the fields, I may choose to raise chickens once more, and I’m thinking about the Silkies!

This post was relatively light compared to some of my previous ones, but I hope that this cursory information will help to give a push, or guide, some in their breed-choosing endeavors. Thank you once again for reading my post! I am thinking about continuing this “extra” series for at least two more posts (possibly one about chicken behavior and another with a more biological approach to chickens), so this won’t be the last you’ll hear about chickens from me. Please leave any questions in the comments below and stay safe!

Welcome back to the blog! Although I have essentially wrapped up my series on raising chickens, there are still some important topics that I was unable to incorporate into my previous entries. Now, here I am in an attempt to wrap things up once and for all! I say that despite having a feeling that this is not the end of our chicken journey. I would not be the least bit surprised if that were to be the case.

On one of my previous blog posts, I received a comment regarding egg laying and harvesting, so I guess that I should dedicate this post to writing about just that! Shown on the right is an anatomical model of a chicken. As I have previously mentioned, chickens only have one vent through which all material that exits their body must leave from. Back to the topic at hand, just as a fun fact, laying the egg does not take a long time, but forming the egg does. It first begins as a yolk, and as it travels through the hen, a shell begins to form around it.

 

Displayed on the right is a graphic with various different possible colors of egg and each of their most common breeds of chicken, respectively. Chicken eggs come in all sorts of sizes and colors, contrary to what is displayed in almost all supermarket refrigerators. The egg laying process begins when the hen is 18 weeks old, and each breed of chicken has its own idiosyncrasies (as I will mention soon). Generally speaking, when a hen feels the need to lay an egg, she will find a comfortable location, sit for a period of time, and then leave. It’s that simple. Depending on the breed, however, the level of egg quality and production will differ. Furthermore, some breeds are particularly broody regardless of whether or not the eggs are fertilized. This means that you will have to put some effort into harvesting the eggs as you awkwardly reach under the guarding “mother” to harvest the egg(s).

Once laid, the eggs should be ready to be eaten. When I say eaten, I mean by humans. It is important that the chickens do not somehow eat their own eggs because this could develop into a habit of theirs. Do not worry. Most of the time, chickens will not instinctively try to eat their own eggs. Additionally, the first couple of eggs that a hen lays may be lacking a tough outer shell. This could be caused simply by a lack of calcium and tends not to be an issue following the first occurrence. Chickens are social animals and value their privacy! Although it may be tempting to check on the hen, I once did so and unintentionally spooked her, causing her to stop laying the egg altogether. I could feel a judging aura emanating from that exact hen for the rest of the day. That definitely sounded less creepy in my head, but the point remains – do not peek on your hen if you wish to have a productive season! It is the equivalent of peeking into a bathroom stall in use! Besides, the process looks painful and disgusting (just search for it on YouTube). What I always found interesting is that certain chickens would “claim” certain egg-laying stalls for themselves. They would not fight over available spots, but there would always be a preferred location to lay eggs among the flock as a whole. In terms of productivity, I assume that egg production and egg quality will both begin to decline as some point after a certain age during the hen’s lifespan.

Finally, hens will almost always sing what is commonly referred to as the hen’s “egg laying song” (heard here). It’s generally unclear to me as to why this behavior exists, but I like to think that the hen is somewhat proud of her achievement. Who can blame her? It’s like being forced to give birth, but every day. I can only imagine what it would have been like if I was birthed and the first thing I ever heard in life was “BOCK BAWK BAGAWCK” for several minutes without pause. Actually, those are chicken sounds, and for those wondering, yes, it does get old quickly. Anyway, what sound would a human make if they behaved in such a way? Please feel free to share your thoughts in the comments section below, and I will be happy to read them.

As always, thanks for reading! Stay safe and join me next time for the next post in the “extra” series!

Welcome back to the blog! This is the third and final (maybe) part of my “How to Raise Chickens” series. At this point, the chickens should be no less than six weeks old (ah yes the dreaded puberty stage), and it is finally time to move them outside of the house. After all, animals tend not to like staying confined, and the currently implemented cleaning process might be too overwhelming to bear at times. With that being said, let’s just jump right into it!

First and foremost, it should be noted that in general, much like with raising a human child, as the chickens grow, different issues will begin to require either more or less attention. Keep this in mind for the future as in terms of diet and living conditions, there is no need to be too worried about involving yourself in – or actively changing – the already established norm. Ensure that food (now store-bought formula) and water are always accessible, it’s just that simple.

An example of something to worry about altering is shelter, obviously. Now that the flock will be exposed to the elements, it is vital that they all live in a much safer permanent residence than before! Shown on the right side is the coop that I bought, assembled, and used for a couple of years for my largest flock of five chickens. In addition to providing a sturdy and safe area, as long as your whole group is able to comfortably fit inside at one time, the coop should be fine. Furthermore, consider whether or not egg-laying areas, perching areas, or a basic camera/light are necessary to have. Placement of the coop is important. It should be in a place with plenty of grass nearby while also being easily accessible and monitored by both the chickens and owner. It is also a good idea to situate it under a backyard deck if possible as it will help to block out the worst type of weather: rain. As per usual, remember to clean the interior of the coop regularly. Thankfully, the weather should not be a major issue even without the coop, especially for hardy breeds of chicken! There are only two main weather-related consequences to worry about. One of them is frozen water in the winter that should be monitored. The other will be touched on later in this post.

Another problem that arises is predators. From snakes to neighborhood felines, raccoons, opossums, foxes/wolves, and other avian hunters, predators are perhaps the most significant obstacle to be aware of when raising poultry in general (speaking from my own experience) as they will singlehandedly determine the success of the flock. Chickens are not only domesticated, but also near the bottom of the food chain, so unless there is a large flock of adults and/or a rooster of considerable strength, awareness, and intimidation, fighting back is never an option. Chickens will value safety in numbers and will almost always resort to fleeing, typical. Name any animal larger than them with some type of natural weaponry and the chickens are likely screwed. Everything out there wants a piece! What is the next step now that I’ve made the danger clear? Fear not! Those predators are no match for a proper plan made with human intelligence!

There are many ways to mount a defense on the fort in order to ensure safety. Personally, I set up a fence to isolate the roaming area and draped a curtain of chicken wire around the deck. Furthermore, I installed motion sensor lights, a door (with a lock) to access the coop underneath the deck, and a tunnel made of fencing for an extra layer of protection. Even with all of this, nothing can stop a starving animal from scheming for its next possible meal, and despite the powerful setup, there is little reason to relax, especially near sunset. Take no risks, and lock the chickens up for bedtime. Their senses, especially eyesight, are significantly weaker when it is dark, so if there does happen to be an sudden ambush, it will likely be game over for at least one of the chickens. The rest may be sent into shock (and must recover quickly) due to the fear of seeing a family member being dragged away. Only the predator wins. Nothing is safe, and predators are always watching. Keep in mind that if the ground is covered in snow, the chickens’ vulnerability spikes, for snow limits potential cover to hide under and makes chickens especially noticeable. Now that’s just a meal waiting to happen! Being vigilant and aware of potential nearby predator attacks is a critical make-or-break aspect. In the end, human presence trumps all. Predators dare not throw hands with me, a 6′ 2″ monster boasting a twelve pack!

Thank you for reading through this series, and thank you to all of the feedback/questions in the comment sections! Although the journey of raising chickens is – for the most part – over, there is still more to be discussed about having them as pets in general along with other miscellaneous – but still notable and important – information to know that I have simply failed to mention or discuss thus far. Join me next time for extra series entries with even more bonus content. Stay safe as always!

Welcome back to my blog post series on raising chickens! Now then, where did we leave off? Oh, that’s right – finally, after exactly three weeks of careful incubation, the chicks have now hatched. Now it’s time to raise them.

Disclaimer: The information given in this blog post comes only from my own personal experience, but just like raising anything, the process will differ at least a little in all cases.

Keep in mind that although these goofy little creatures are cute critters, they are also fragile and should be treated as such. Wait until their feathers are dry and have detached from the egg. Again, they will be fine on their own, so avoid helping them with this. If closely examined, there will likely be a scab forming from where the chick detached from. This should naturally be absorbed or healed.

Now it is time to make a suitable habitat for the bunch. A temperature of 95 degrees Fahrenheit should maintain an appropriate environment for newly hatched chicks. This can be achieved with the use of a simple, hanging heat lamp (right). For those wondering, a red bulb coloring will not bother the chicks. Thankfully, the temperature is not nearly as strict as the hatching temperature. However, both the heat and behavior of the chicks should be monitored. For example, if chicks are huddled together under the source of heat for extended periods of time, it means that the temperature should be raised a bit. Conversely, if the chicks are observed to seem restless, be drinking a lot of water, and are spread out away from the heat source, it may be a good time to lower the temperature.

In terms of the habitat itself, at this stage, there is no need to be fancy at all. A spacious-enough cardboard box with room to fit everything (mentioned later) in addition to having areas to avoid the heat source will work well, but anything above nine square feet may be too large at the beginning. For starters, four square feet should suffice. The habitat should also be deep enough such that the chicks do not successfully jump out. Cover the floor with something that is easily trashed and replaceable to act as a soft bedding layer, providing some amount of comfort, cleanliness, and even warmth or safety. Dried hay with newspaper articles should be fine for this purpose. I would avoid dirt, wood chips, sand, cloth, and rough/thick/hard paper. Obviously, there should also be two separate feeders – one for food and one for water – or at least dishes/bowls/containers for now. Additionally, because of unpredictable noises and frequent, natural odor, it may also be a good idea to keep the habitat in a place with clean air that is not frequently used (but still safe for the chicks). Hygiene is important – that much is self-explanatory, so expect to be cleaning the habitat even more often in the weeks leading up to their transition into the outdoors.

Next comes diet. Water is simple, and a small water jug fountain can be bought/made and used. Make sure that there is clean water available at all times. As long as there is not a major water spill, there can never be too much. For a starter diet, there are multiple options. Owners could either jump straight to store-bought, commercial/specialized feed for chicks or create their own formula using water, corn meal, lettuce/cabbage, peas, and/or other nutritional fruits and veggies as supplement. Either way, the fact that chickens will eat almost any fruit, veggie, or (live) insect helps. I am not fully aware of anything that may be poisonous to them. Chickens are not particularly picky eaters, but truth be told, if something is unsafe for the chicken to consume, it will likely recognize the danger involved simply by instinct.

Finally, there is a relatively common condition known as pasty butt that may afflict young hatchlings. If it does happen, it will usually occur early on in their life. Basically, chicken’s only have one vent for any materials that exit the body, and this vent may experience a hardened blockage of waste that will impede the chicken in passing waste products and any other type(s) of excrement in the future. As long as it is recognized before it is too late, the condition is easily fixable with caution and warm water. With this in mind, just be sure to monitor their health, physique, and behavior. For the comfort of readers, I will NOT be displaying an image of this, but feel free to do some more digging on the web! Instead, I have attached an image of a chick sleeping in my hand! Enjoy, for this is the cutest it will ever be. Always remember to wash your hands after handling, especially so in this day and age!

I have made the decision to make this a three(?) part series! Join me next time as I discuss the transition to the great outdoors. Thank you for reading; I hope that you have learned something new, and stay safe as always!

Some kids dream of traveling to space. Others dream of saving lives. Even more dream of becoming the next celebrity. I dreamed of taking care of animals. I recall constantly asking to adopt a dog up until middle school. How did my parents get me to shut up about that? A family friend owned a farm full of chickens and wanted even more in his flock. We took the opportunity and never looked back. However, the one condition was that they would help me if and only if I first learned how to raise chickens myself.

“Piece of cake! I already know how! Put the egg here and it’ll work! Okay, stop shaking your heads and just watch…” *crack*.

Roll credits.

Just kidding! Surprised by the feeling of having a cold, runny “accident”, I soon realized that sitting on the egg helped as much as dropping it. I obviously had a lot to learn, so I took to surfing the web, and as I write this, I’m starting to think that my parents allowing me to have chickens as pets was just an elaborate plan for them to get me to start yapping less and reading more. I guess I should also be grateful to have learned what “patience” and “responsibilities” (ew) are, but honestly, I still have no idea what those are! Anyway, I’m here to share my experience.

An overview of the entire 21-day egg incubation process can be boiled (no pun intended) down into four important factors:

1. Temperature: To start, preparing some type of incubator will make this process so much easier. The incubator that I used is similar to the one on the right, capable of reaching and being kept at our desired temperature: optimally 100 degrees Farenheit (or approximately 37.5 degrees Celsius). This temperature has an effective range of plus or minus one degree Farenheit, so don’t mess this part up.

2. Moisture: Preparations for this should be made either by using a hygrometer and water pan (preferred) or a moist paper towel. No matter what, both options will need to be adjusted during incubation in order to maintain a relative humidity level of 40%-55% for the first 18 days. 3 days before the eggs are set to hatch, raise the level to 70%-75%. Also, ventilation is key. Try to find an incubator with a healthy and proper amount of airflow in order to circulate oxygen, heat, and moisture.

3. Egg condition and turning: Have you ever seen the way that Costco cooks their rotisserie chicken in the oven? This part will never fail to remind me of that. Short tangent aside, mark each egg in a way such that it is easy to distinguish one side from the other. Turn the eggs at least three times from one side to the other each day; stop turning on day 18 or 19 because the chick will begin orienting itself into an optimal hatching position. There is no need to be more involved than turning thrice every day, but generally, more turns per day is better, but the number of turns should be odd such that the eggs don’t spend two consecutive nights on the same side. I like to start with a smiley face facing upward so that the eggs will be smiling on hatch day.

It’s also a good idea to keep track of their statuses by candling. It essentially acts like a budget ultrasound. Simply hold the egg, shine a flashlight through it, and look through in the opposite direction. Hopefully, the embryo is developing as intended (see right). This way, it becomes possible to monitor each egg’s health. “Dud” eggs without any signs of change should be removed from the incubator and disposed of one week in at the latest. Lastly, there is no need to try cleaning the eggs in any way. In fact, it could actually damage them.

4. Egg positioning: The eggs should be spaced out from each other and placed in a stable, horizontally-oriented position (on its side). This ensures safety among them, especially if an early bird inadvertently disturbs, or tampers with, the other unhatched eggs.

If all goes well, expect to hear and see movement on the 21st day (almost exactly). It will take a long time from the first pip to hatch, and it is a very tiring process, so if the chick seems unresponsive, it’s likely just resting on the job. It’s okay to give it some verbal encouragement, but avoid helping the chicks hatch at all costs.

Unfortunately, I was unable to recover images of my previous generations from when I was younger, but pictured on the right are newly hatched chicks, not to be confused with the average Monday morning college student. Sheesh! Talk about a bad feather day, buddy! Don’t worry, the chicks are only a few hours old, so the cute and fluffy phase will set in soon enough! Also notable is that not all of the eggs should be expected to hatch, for the successful hatch rate of any given clutch is generally 70% – 90%, so consider yourself lucky if all of your 5+ eggs yield healthy chicks. It’s relatively quick, and there isn’t even any medical bill nonsense to deal with later! Congrats!!

The process itself is precise but isn’t too difficult to carry out. In contrast, the growth and development of any form of life can be quite complicated to completely understand. It’s important to keep in mind that this post only briefly covers key information about egg incubation, and as expected, there are always more detailed resources to be found elsewhere regarding certain issues that could be encountered throughout the process.

As always, thanks for chickin’ this post out, and I hope you’ve learned something new. This post is solely about hatching eggs, and you may be wondering: “Now that they’re hatched, what do I do?”. Well, I’m glad you asked! Join me next time when I’ll discuss how to nurture these little nuggets (of joy)! Stay safe.