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Kashimayarigatake

IMG_7080 StitchAfter waiting for a week for the typhoon to pass we headed out into field the next day (August 11th).  Though I am sure there was damage from the typhoon in some parts of Japan, were we were and where we were going the weather was fine.

We took the train (Otio Line) from Matsumoto to Shinano-Omachii Station (40 min North) and then boarded a bus to Ogizawa. Most of our fellow bus riders were on their way to the Tateyama Kurobo Alpine Route, which is a tunnel, gondola, cable car and bus route across the Northern Japanese Alps. Their trip begins at Ogizawa station, ours began about 1km down the road from Ogizawa at the trailhead that leads up to the cabin on the ridgeline. After registering our hike we started up the mountain. It needs to be stated that this hike was Yosuke’s first ever backpacking trip and Abby’s second. Though the conceptually they knew what they were in for, their bodies were not quite as ready. The trail from the trailhead to the cabin on the ridge is about 5 km long and goes up 1000 m. Originally I had planned that we would just stop and take a break at the cabin and hike on to the cabin near Kashimayarigatake, however, due to the pure exhaustion of Abby and Yosuke we stayed the night at the campground near the cabin on the ridge. I am not saying I was not tired after the uphill hike, just not exhausted. After setting up camp both Abby and Yosuke immediately fell asleep for a few hours while I wondered around.

IMG_6640Abby and Youske at the cabin on the ridgelineIMG_6665Beautiful weather for hiking

After a great night sleep we were awoken by the alpine start of our fellow campers, another surprise for the newbies. In the morning we hiked on to Kashimayarigatake, along the way the trail bends upwards towards Jigatake (Old Man Mountain). Though the weather was getting bad I made a quick trip up to the peak while the others continued to trudge onwards. The rain began to fall and the winds picked up creating a horizontal rainstorm. This kept up until we reached the Kashimayari cabin and campground. Due to the foul weather and earliness of the day we had our pick of campsites. We set up at the corner of the campground away from the trail and near a small wood to have a little bit of protection from the wind and rain.

IMG_6688On top of JigatakeIMG_6698Hiking from Jigatake to the Kashimayari Cabin (Yosuke in Orange)

IMG_6707Our tent for the summer (North Face Phoenix) with Tateyama in the background

After setting up camp and having a bit of rest (Abby and Yosuke might have napped again, I can’t recall all of their naps) we went to go scout out the study site. After scouting out the site Abby and I continued up the trail to the peak of Kashimayarigatake. The view of Tateyama and Tsuguri is amazing. On our way down we spotted two bears off in the distance.

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Abby on top of Kashimayargatake looking at Tateyama and Tsuguri IMG_6805Abby and Yosuke in the Field

The next morning we woke and headed off into the field. The previous day I noted that the birch belt was quite deep, but when walking through the site was a bit overwhelmed at how much work we were getting ourselves in to. We continued down until we finally came across the subalpine forest. Here we began to install the transect. Transect work continued throughout that day and the next. The following was a beautiful morning, one that was uber productive to the point that I thought we might actually get all the work done ahead of schedule. Boy was I wrong. Around 11 am the sky opened up, I could see the storm coming from the Tateyama region, buy wow was it rainy. After completing my tasks I ran around helping Yosuke and Abby finish up measuring the crown of the trees they were coring so we could huddle down until the storm had passed. We found a nice thicket of sorbus (Rowen) to hunker under. After about 30 minutes the storm still had not passed and did not show an inkling of doing so, at that point we headed up out of the field towards the campground.

DCIM100GOPROStanding water in the campground during the torrent

We spent the rest of the afternoon in the tents. There were a few moments of light rain but it was just nasty out. Though it was rainy, we still made plans to wake at 5:30 and get going in the morning. When we woke it was still rainy so we stayed in the tents. I don’t mean it was rainy and we were afraid of melting kind of rain but a full on thunder and lightning rainstorm that kept coming in waves. When a wave passed we would have about 30 minutes of time to stand, cook, and run to the loo. But then it would come back with vengeance. On a nearby mountain they recorded 33mm falling within an hour. In total this went on for 2 ½ days. We would have hiked out earlier, however, we still hoped that the weather would improve and we could finish the work. However, after 2 ½ days in the tents we now had more than half the work to accomplish in 1 ½ days, which was too much for such a short period of time. Thus on the morning of the 18th, 7 days into our potential trip we hiked out.

After 3 days in Matsumoto we headed back up to Kasimayarigatake. This second trip up to Kashimayari went much better than the first trip. While still sucking wind, we all made it up the mountain and all the way to the Kashimayari campground in much less time and effort than the first time.   While this second trip up to Kashimayari was equally wet to the first trip, it was lacking in thunder and lightning, so we worked. In 2 ½ days we were able to finish the rest of the work and hiked out in a torrent of rain. While packing up I put my mug outside the tent and over a centimeter of rain fell.

Though it took us two trips we successfully completed the Kashimayarigatake transect we were successful. While Abby and Yosuke knew what to expect in terms of field work, this trip was a lesson in backpacking and working in inclement weather. Considering we will be doing fieldwork and backpacking the rest of the summer and most likely in bad weather this was a great lesson. I am really proud of them.

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Japanese Apartment

We arrived to Matsumoto at noon on a warm 32•C day and were greeted by Dr. Takahashi at the bus depot. This year the first few weeks of our stay in Matsumoto is not in the International House but in an apartment to the west of Shinshu University up on a hill. In addition to being on a hill our apartment is on the 5th floor. The view from the balcony is amazing, it looks out over all of Matsumoto and into the Mountains that surround the valley. On clear days we can even see Mt. Norikura from the balcony.

View from ApartmentView from the apartment balcony

The expanse of the view made me mention to Abby that this would be the perfect vista to watch fireworks. We haven’t been disappointed. Today is “Marine Day” as in Ocean celebration day which initiated the summer beach season. Though tonight will probably be amazing the whole weekend we have been enjoying firework displays both natural (lightning) and in celebration out of all our windows.fireworkThe apartment itself is very nice and big, yes, I said big. We have a bathroom (more on this later), a kitchen, living room and 3 bedrooms with tatami mat floors. With the windows open and shōji (paper doors/ room dividers) open we get a delightful breeze through the apartment keeping it cool-ish. A night we sleep on futons on the tatami mat floor with pillows made of cut up pieces of straw and giant towels as sheets/blankets. Life in the Japanese apartment is pretty good. IMG_6212Shōji (Paper door and window shades/curtains)IMG_62094 1/2 tatami mat room with shōji doors

A note is needed on the shower. There is a Japanese style tub (2 ½ ft. square by 3 ft. deep) with a shower head attached. To use it first one must turn on the gas and prime the water heater. Then you can choose to fill up the tub or take a shower on the tiles just outside the tub. Thus far we have only showered but a soak will be in our futures before moving to the International dorm in a few weeks. Temperature options range from scalding, burning to hot. Amazingly the shower water is instantly hot after priming and starting the shower. The only way we can get a cool shower is by not priming the heater, but then it is sometimes too cool.Tub_ShowerJapanese tub and shower with gas water heater

So far we love our apartment and will be a bit sad to leave our traditional apartment for western style dorm rooms. Then again we will soon begin our mountain (work) adventures and will be spending less time in Matsumoto.Matsumoto_Castle_from_Apartment

Matsumoto Castle from our balcony

Matsumoto_Castle_Rainbow Matsumoto Castle with a light rainbow Matsumoto_Castle_Night Matsumoto Castle at night

Kyoto Climate Talks

 KICC

Kyoto International Conference Centre

Talks on climate and climate change have a long history in Kyoto, not as long as the 1200 year history of the city but in terms of climate talks, Kyoto is historic.

There were very few biogeography talks at the conference, roughly 6 sessions could fit into what is classically called biogeography.  Though they also would have fallen out under remote sensing, nature society, livelihoods and landscape planning. Due to this limitation of biogeography talks at the meeting I went to talks of the dominant physical geography group “climatology”.  While they were the dominant physical discipline, over all physical geography is grossly under represented at the conference.

An example of how under represented physical geography is can be seen from the 65(8) US based geographers at the conference 3 would be considered physical.  GIS is also poorly represented.  The dominant group is Human Geography. I don’t even know how well Nature Society was represented for in almost all of the biogeography talks one to two talks were about livelihoods in relation to nature, so maybe they too are underrepresented.

Back to the climate.  There were three main climate themes: Historical, Urban and Monsoons.  I primarily attended the historical climatology sessions.  These talks were primarily about Japan showing reconstructions of precipitation, temperatures and ENSO from historical documents.  I was extra interested in these topics considering my research and that I shall be working on reconstructions from the tree rings in central Japan.

Historical Climate

I learned about some more good resources to look at for historical climate data as well as I had some insights on how to merge unusual data sources for my research. Such as the Japan Climate Data Project which is compiling these old documents into useable data.

The mountains huts have been running for roughly 50-100 years.  I am going to ask if they have daily climate data for any span of time that I might be able to use to validate or debunk the laps rates and radiosounde data.

One of the interesting things that came up in many presentations was that in the 1850-1860’s it was especially warm in Japan.  This period of time corresponds with the end of the little ice age here in Japan and throughout East Asia. It will be interesting to examine my tree establishment data to see if there is a trend of greater establishment around this same period.

While I was hoping for a good variety of biogeography talks at IGU, I felt honored that I could attend so many talks on climate at the historic grounds of the Kyoto Protocol.

At One with Nature?

Preliminary talk “Where there in the Japanese Language Originally Equivalent to the words ‘Environment’ and ‘Nature’?” by Dr. Minoru Senda

Dr. Senda discussed why ‘Environment’ and ‘Nature’ were not words found in Japanese before the second half of the 19th century, for before than these words did not exist.  He argues that this is because there is no divide between people and nature in Japanese culture.  To exemplify this point he introduced us to Tobusa Tate which is the ritual of tree respect and worship.  A prayer is made before the tree is cut and again after it has been felled.  On the stump branches are placed and a small shrine is created.

 Senda's talk

Slide from Dr. Senda’s talk, Quote from Keiji Iwata “A tree becomes a person, and a person becomes a tree”

While I found Dr. Senda’s talk interesting and enjoyed learning about Tobusa Tate, I am not sure I agree that there is no divide between people and nature in Japanese culture.  This may have been true before the second half of the 19th century, but I do not think it is true today.  He gave an example of how gardening and rock gardens show that how at one they are with nature.  To me this makes no sense.  By manipulating the plants and rocks into designs is not at one with nature it is controlling nature.

Silver pavillion

Sand Garden at the Silver Pavillion (Ginkaku-ji)

 My experiences in the Japanese Alps which is about as natural as you can get in Japan is that people fear nature rather than being at one with nature.  They are frightened of bears, don’t like to sweat or get dirty and put rain gear on so quickly in a drizzle you would think they might melt.    These do not seem to be behaviors of people who are at one with nature.

That being said I have also seen thousands of people flock into the mountains to be at One with the mountains.   They climb the mountains to watch the rising and setting sun across the amazing landscape of the Japanese Alps (when it is not raining or foggy), however, they distance themselves by sleeping in comfy beds and eat hot food at the lodges.  Yet still claim to be one with nature.

Helio on Tsu

5am, post-sunrise on Tsubakuro a helicopter arrives to drop of supplies.  We saw more than one Keg being unloaded from the cargo net.

IGU- Let the Conference Begin

International Geographic Union – IGU

IGU Banner

This year the IGU regional conference was held in Kyoto at the Kyoto International Conference Centre (ICC).  The conference ran from August 5th-August 9th.The day before the conference began there was a public lecture at Kyoto University in Japanese in order to both introduce and welcome Kyoto to geography and the conference.

The opening ceremony for the conference was held on Monday morning.  Before attending the conference we were told that there would be a security check before entering the opening ceremonies.  The program said that in addition to the many welcoming speeches that a message from the Prime Minister, due to the security there was speculation that the Prime Minister might actually be in attendance.  However, this was not the case.  Instead to our delight the Imperial Prince and Princess Akihito were in attendance.  It turns out that Prince Akihito has a PhD in Molecular Biology and specialized in chicken domestication in East-Asia.

Near the end of the opening ceremonies the gold metals were given out to the International Geography Olympiad (iGeo, http://japan-igeo.com/english/) winners.  The iGeo Olympiad is a competition for aspiring high school geographers.  The top 10 winners were from an interesting group of countries: Romania, Slovakia, Mexico, Singapore, Croatia, Australia and Latvia.  The top winner was a young man from Singapore.

At the end of the opening ceremonies there was a high school drumming group (KUSW Konko Toin High School Drum Troop), Helena and I had seen a similar drum group in Matsumoto a few weeks ago.  However, this group at the opening ceremony was amazing.  They were so in sync and animated that they really did an amazing job.

KyotoICC_Geog

Geographers in the garden of Kyoto ICC

After the opening ceremony there was a group lunch where I met up with my friend Tim Reiffenstein from Mount Allison University.  It was great seeing him and meeting new geographers.  After lunch there was time to relax before the first sessions began.  I presented in the second of the sessions that ran that day.  I took some of the break to sit in the gardens of the Kyoto ICC to go over my talk and mentally prepare for my presentation.

Tim and Me

Tim Reiffenstein and me in the gardens at the Kyoto ICCC

My session was titled “Landscape Analysis and Landscape Planning”, there were two talks in the session.  The first talk was by Dr. Victor Ermoshin, a Russian professor from the Pacific Geographical Institute whose talk was on “Functional zoning of the Amur River basin landscapes”.  Then I gave my talk on “Structural variation between an angiosperm timberline and gymnosperm subalpine dominated forest, Hida Mountains, Japan”.  The audience was primarily Russian colleagues of Dr. Ermoshin, however, there were also a few Japanese professors there too.  They asked some good questions, understanding that the work I presented was a pilot study that I am using as a platform for my dissertation research.

After my presentation was a cocktail party hosted by IGU.  They had a large buffet as well as an open Sake Bar.  I met lots of interesting new professors and students from all over the world during the party.  Post party I went out with a group of Urban and Rural Geographers, interestingly they were primarily Spanish speaking from both Europe and Japan.  It was a great time and I really enjoyed meeting these geographers from different countries and disciplines.

IGU CocktailParty Toast

Toast made by the President of the IGU Vladimir Kolossov at the Cocktail Party

IGU CocktailParty Sake

Sake Bar

IGU CocktailParty

Milling about and socializing