Tag Archives: Norikura

Meet my assistants for the 2014 field season

Last summer I had great pleasure working in the field with two good friends, though not at the same time. This summer I am working with two research assistants throughout the summer. I am hopeful that having three people in the field with both speed up the sampling as well as provide a safer work environment on these remote mountain peaks.

Norikura field teamOutside the Cosmic Ray Research Station the morning of our first day of work (Amanda, Abby, Yosuke)

1st up we have Abby Dolinger. Abby is a recent graduate from Penn State University with a Degree in Geography and minor in Environmental Studies. She is an active globe trotter having worked on organic farms, studied abroad, and conducted research  in Spain during her time at Penn State. In addition to her activities relating to Spain, she has worked in both the Vegetation Dynamics Lab with Alan Taylor and the Forest Dynamics Lab with Margot Kaye on a number of research projects.

Abby is an enthusiastic, hardworking assistant who is quick to learn the new tasks. Furthermore, she is easy to get along with which always a plus is when doing fieldwork.

Abby_Norikura_ViewAbby with the whole of the Northern Alps in the background
Abby_coreGetting the hang of coring Betula (birch)
Abby_Norikura3026 meters is not enough for Abby, she wants to get to 3028m.

2nd is Yosuke Hara. Yosuke is a biology student in his 4th year at Shinshu University (http://www.shinshu-u.ac.jp/english/index.html) in the Faculty of Science working with Dr. Koichi Takahashi .This summer Yosuke is working with me to learn both field and lab methods for dendrochronology, which he will need for his 4th project (similar to a senior thesis). In fact his project is within the framework of my dissertation, he will be analyzing the climate response of the Abies (Fir) at my most southern site (Norikura) and one of the Northern sites (Kashimiyarigatake). Thus as we visit the various mountains for my research we are conducting his research along the way.

In addition to being some added muscle in the field, it is great to have a Japanese student. I have so many questions about the Japanese language, history and culture and it is nice to have a friend around to answer these questions. Furthermore, we do not have to only rely on my basic, basic Japanese to get places or ask questions. Though I have managed to get by just fine the past two summers, it is a bit less stressful when traveling knowing he can easily just ask where we are or what is going on.

Yosuke_coreYosuke coring his very first tree!TentoumoushiYosuke and his car Tentoumoushi (ladybug) which he kindly shuttled us around with at our first site on Norikura.Yosuke_CookingYosuke teaching Abby and I how to cook Japanese Curry.

So far Abby, Yosuke and I have completed one site on the western slope of Norikura. This first site will probably be the easiest of the summer. We stayed in the Cosmic Ray Research Station near the top of Norikura and drove the 7km to our study site everyday in Yosuke’s car. In addition, to completing the sites, my main goal was to fully teach Abby and Yosuke the methods. We spent lots of time discussing what was going to go on in the field before heading out, then I reiderated what the methods were in the field, then when Abby and Yosuke began the work and had questions we talked about what was going on again. One of my favorite things thus far about working in the field with Abby and Yosuke is that they ask questions when they do not understand. I would much rather them take the time to ask questions and do everything correct than making up new methods in the field.

I think that if we can keep up our work ethic and good attitudes (except when the little and large flies are tormenting us) in the field we are going to have a great and productive field season.

IMG_6462Last day in the field at Norikura, ready to hike off the mountain and away from the flies.

Hiking Norikura

When I only had two days left on Norikura and most of my work was done I decided it was time to finally bag the peak.  The work that I had left was all hemispherical photographs which required cloudy days/ dawn/ dusk.  Thus when I woke up and saw that it was sunny, I decided, today is the day to hike Norikura.  However, the weather is so variable that I brought my work gear as well in case it was cloudy on my way down the mountain.

The first 1/3 of the trail I was quite familiar with since I hike it pretty much everyday, from there on however it was a new experience.

second leg

Up the second third I went.  Interestingly the higher I went on the mountain the more restricted the trail became.  So many people hike Norikura that to preserve the ecosystem and vegetation areas are roped off for hiking and you are not supposed to leave the trail.  The second third of the hike as did the first follows a stream up slope.  At a beautiful little pool in the stream there were two posts with Kanji written on them and two statues.

trail shrine

trail statues

The one with a cane I like to think is the Norikura Yoda.

The trail continues to gradually go up slope until it hits the road again.  Here is where in the spring the road stops and the buses turn around.  Just up slope from the road is a large bowl in the mountain side that is protected from the sun and wind.  This is where people come to ski almost year round.  When I hiked the mountain it was August 10th and there were maybe 15 people out on the snow skiing.  Due to the quality of the snow at this point there are tracks that people ski down rather than just anywhere.  Apparently lots of ski teams come to Norikura to train during the summer.

Skiing now

The hike continues it’s way up hill skirting around the bowl, and leads it’s way up to an even higher cottage on Norikura.  This cottage like most hiking cabins is also a restaurant and gift store.  From the cabin to the top is the last stage of the hike, and the only one that most people take.  The reason for this is that during the summer people can take the bus up to about 2700m, which is only 300m shy of the peak.  One of the reasons for the road is that there is an observatory up there on the mountain.

observatory

So there are lots of people from this point on, while the other part of the trail had been all mine.

lotsohikers

I don’t think I had ever hiked with so many other people at one time.  Many of the hikers were elderly, but there were also a fair number of families with kids hiking the mountain.  As with most things in Japan I did not know the proper hiking etiquette, so I went with what we do in America.  That being if someone comes up behind you and you are hiking slowly, stand aside and let them pass.  If one person is going down and another going up and they meet, who should yield,  in America the person going down would yield.  Etc.  However, I could not find a pattern in what the Japanese did, it was basically a slow scramble up a trail.  The trail was relatively wide in most areas, but not always to allow for traffic to go both ways.  trail

Some of the other things I observed were that people did not always like you to pass them, sort of as though it was a line and no one should skip other people.  This feeling was more prominent when I passed older people than the younger.  Or maybe they remembered when they could quickly scamper up a mountain.  Either way there was much waiting.

There was this one old lady who would take a step and then rest, then take another step and rest.  When ever I made a move to go around her she would try to keep going but then stop and rest.  I backed off and waited until the trail widened more so I could just go around.  Younger folks were more willing to let you pass with a “doozo” or “sumimasen”.

Up the mountain we climbed on to a shoulder of the mountain which led to the peak.  As I climbed the mountain clouds began to form and soon it was completely enshrouded by them.  Though there was an occasional glimpse of a view.  In the crater of the volcano there is a large alpine lake with a little remnant snow pack around.  crater

From there you can see the peak clearly with a shrine on top! But of course I did not have 5 yen on me.  It is tradition to donate 5 yen when praying at a shrine, 5 yen is sort of a sign of good luck.

shrine

Norikura is 3026m high and very easy to climb, though I am not sure I would want to do it in the rain.  I sat on the peak for about 45 minutes watching the clouds, occasional view and my fellow hikers.

Norikura_me

On my way down I was much more observant than on my way up and noticed that on the scree slopes where the hiking trail did not go were pink.  Pink with flowers, I could not tell what kind so I got out my camera and zoomed in to discover these beauties.

 hillside of pinkPink flower

komakusa (コマクサ) or Dicentra peregrina

 

Back down the mountain I went and since it got cloudy, I preceded to finish out the rest of my work.

 

Kuma

Beware of Kuma

Beware of Bear?   I think it is funny that the picture is an angry grizzley like bear and nothing like the bears I have seen.  Sign at the bus stop on my way up the mountain.

On the road early in my trip I had the chance to see two kuma (Japanese Black Bear or Moon Bears).  The relationship between the Japanese and Kuma is quite funny and I do not understand it.  In the park there is no hunting, or at least I hope not.  So there are very few kuma and tons of people visit Norikura everyday.  Some of the middle school groups that show up to hike the mountain are in groups in the order of 200-300 students.  With all these people around even with it being peak berry season, if I was a bear I would stay away.

However, the Japanese are really quite scared of bears.  Very few people hike without a kuma yoki zuzu (Bear protection bell).  One day I was in the woods working, not too far from the trail, but far enough to not be seen when a herd of middle school students started to go by.  In addition to bear bells, their sheer number and their incessant yelling they also had fire crackers.  When I asked the cabin owner about it he was not surprised.  Fire crackers in the national park to keep bears at bay.  Crazy, I don’t think that would be legal in the US but probably more due to risk of fire than anything else.  I don’t think Japanese carry guns while in the wilderness, but after this experience I began to wonder.  I had known for awhile that some people probably heard me in the woods working and thought I was a bear, should I make it clear I am not.  Yell, iie kuma every once in awhile? Well sometimes I yell that anyways but not to tell people I am not a bear but to keep bears away.  I also yell no bear, but incase the bears speak Japanese I do it in both languages.

It was not until I was about 40 meter from a kuma in the woods and startled it and it startled me and probably neither of us saw each other but scurried in opposite directions that I realized maybe I should have a bell.  If me working in the woods, even with my noise allows a bear to get that close.  That night I was given a bear bell to use while in the woods.  While it is good for me to keep bears away, I think it is equally valuable in letting people know, I am not a bear.  Though their faces might seem equally shocked when I come barging out of the woods in seeing a foreigner, as they would a bear.

Kuma near road

During my last week on Norikura I saw two bears.  One scared me while I was in the woods I think I was walking and it was walking and neither of us heard each other.  However, when I stopped and started working I realized that there was a bear about 10m to my right and my heart skipped a beat.  Then I made lots of noise both yelling and with my bell.  The bear scampered up slope and started to circumnavigate me on the left side.  That is when I decided I was done with that plot for the day and would just have to return some other time.

The other bear was very photogenic.  I was walking down the road around 6pm when I came across a bear in a meadow.  My bear bell rung every time I took a step so I am sure it heard me way before I saw it but when I came into view it looked at me and then went back about it’s business of eating flowers.

Typical Day

I realize that many of you do not really understand what I have been up to here in Japan.  You realize I am here doing research, at that research in the forest, but what am I truly up too.

I’ll give you an outline of an average day here in Japan.

I wake up around 5:30 when the light starts streaming into my room at the cottage, however, my alarm does not go off till 6:00 so I lie in bed and doze for about 30 minutes until my alarm clock actually goes off.  Then I get up out of bed, fold it up for the day and get dressed in the clothes that I have been wearing everyday in the field.  Before I leave my room if it is not raining I open my window so that the room stays cool through the day and then go down the hall to the dinning area to eat breakfast.

uniform

Horrible picture but it is difficult to take too many self portraits while in the shrubs.  This photo is to show my ‘uniform’ for the summer.  The only official thing about it is my arm band which says something of the sort of Shinshu University Research, I think it says more but I do not know what.  The arm band is great, though frequently I just have it attached to my backpack.  The reason it is great is because it answers many questions of people that see me out and about.

Breakfast is one of two very similar things.  1. Oatmeal or 2. Rice.  The oatmeal is not quite like oatmeal in the USA but it does the job.  On occasion I run out of oatmeal and then I cook extra rice at dinner for breakfast.  Into this grain I add peanut butter and honey.  Though I must say the peanut butter is really nothing like what we eat in the US, it is a source of morning protein.  With this I drink a cup of instant Nestle coffee with lots of milk powder.  I am not really that fond of the instant coffee but the caffeine is nice.  Odd as it might be the Instant Nestle Coffee’s label is in Spanish with a Japanese sticker on top.  Lots of western or American food here is in Spanish.

After breakfast I fill up my water bottles, make sure lunch and snacks are packed.  Then I go to the drying room for my gators and measuring pole before heading for the door.  At the door I put my boots and gators on.  The last thing I do before I leave is say itte rasshai (So long or I’ll go and come back).  Then I start my hike.

The hike to my field sites depends on where I am going, all are easily accessible.  Takahashi Sensei has established 125 plots on Norikura, and he has done so with the forethought that he will not always be young and able but that he will continue to want to study and monitor the forest as he ages.  Knowing this most of his plots is within easy access from either the road up Norikura or along one of the hiking trails.  Most plots are within a 30 minute walk from the cabin.

If I am in a Haimatsu or Kaba forest I make sure I am wearing my long sleeves.  This is a precaution not for the bugs, though my collar is normally popped to keep the large horseflies at bay, but for the branches.  My arms are littered with cuts and bruises from walking through shrubs.  Some mornings I do not realize it for it is hot and I have either a tee-shirt or my sleeves rolled up, but after an hour or two of bushwhacking my forearms are either bleeding or stinging from the shrubs.  So, I roll them down or change shirts.  You would think I would remember, but the morning hike is hot.

I have a map of all of the plots as well as their GPS coordinates, though this does not always make them easy to find.   Plots are denoted by ‘number tape’ that is thick flagging with numbers typed on to it, that have been stapled to trees.  Additionally, each plot is 10 x10m in size and at each corner is a piece of PVC piping.  This piping is however, not always easy to find.

For my research I am using point centre quarter methods, which means that I divide each plot up into 4 quarters or segments.  I put a stake (branch with flagging) in at the centre of each plot.  Thus if I can find two of the four stakes I can take an azimuth and find the centre of the plot knowing the proper distance to the middle knowing the proper distance to the middle using Pythagoreans theorem.  So I don’t in truth have to find all of the corners, which is really nice.

 PCQ

Once I establish the centre of the plot, I record the azimuth to the plot in case I need to return, so that I can find the same trees.  Then I attach a measuring tape to a tent stake.  In each of the quarters I measure the distance to the nearest tree greater than 2 meters tall (Kaba and Momi) or greater than 4cm at base (haimatsu).  In addition to measuring the distance to the nearest tree I also record the azimuth to that tree and the distance and azimuth to its nearest neighbor.  That is right trees have neighbors, they are very competitive with one another and try to interfere in each others lives.

TreeMeasure.jpg

The diameter at base and at breast height (1.37m) is measured and recorded for all trees as well as their position in the canopy.  Are they dominant, co dominate, intermediate or suppressed.  Additional parameters are taken from the nearest trees in each quarter such as tree height, height to lowest branches, diameter of crown at it’s widest and perpendicular to that.  Lastly, a tree core is taken from each of the nearest trees that is greater than 4 cm at base.

Now I know some of you know what a tree core is but not all, so let me briefly explain.  A tree core is taken from the tree by using a tree borer (insert photo).  Basically, it is a hollow drill that is manually drilled into the tree.  Once the centre of the tree has been reached a spoon (not a kitchen spoon, but one for this purpose) is use to extract the core from the inside of the borer.  The tree core is then put into a straw and labeled and the borer is extracted from the tree.

Tree Coring

Out of date photo of me coring a tree, this photo is from 2007 in Northern Sweden.  You should be able to get the idea from the photo.  If you know anything about coring trees, please disregard the technique in the photo for I had a broken collar bone at the time and was only demonstrating how to core to my undergraduate assistant.

Though when I write it out it does not seem like it should take that long plots normally take 1-2 hours a piece, sometimes more if I have difficulty in finding the plot or coring the trees or if it raining.

I work until I get hungry for lunch anytime between 10 am and 1pm, then I eat.  Lunch is leftovers from dinner.  Dinner is purposefully made to big so that I also have lunch.  I also have rice crackers, fruit and some candy.  Then back to work.  I keep going until about 6-6:30 in the evening and then I pack up and head back to the cabin getting back around 6:30-7pm.  Before going inside I try to shed as many fir and pine needles as well as twigs off my person, letting my hair down things always fall out.

Upon my arrival I say ‘Tadaima’, which always is a great feeling.  If there are other guests at the cottage I say ‘Kobanwa’ or ‘Konichiwa’ before they start talking to me and I don’t know what they say.  If that happens the cabin owner or his staff tells them to let me go put my stuff down before talking with me.  They know that when I return in the evenings I am exhausted and that it takes a little bit for me to be able to communicate.  Food helps.  If there are no guests I just go about my own business.

I put my measuring pole and gators back into the drying room till morning, change out of my field clothes and go to the dining room.  It’s dinner time, well, it’s time to cook dinner and lunch.  I didn’t really know what people ate in the mountains, and as of yet at the cottage none of the other visitors have cooked their own food they have bought from the cottage.  So what do I eat for two of my meals a day? Basically fried rice, but different than what we would call that from in America.  I cook up rice and put a packet of beans and other grains in with it.  When the rice is almost cooked I cut up some dried fish (I don’t know what kind, but it is good and smoked) and throw it in to hydrate.  When the rice is done, I stir fry some veggies.  Typically, bell peppers and eggplant though sometimes also carrot and zucchini.  The zucchini though does not taste very good the next day so I have stopped that.  When the veggies are almost done I scramble two eggs and put them in too.  Once this is all cooked I mix it into the rice and add a couple of packets of flavoring.  I have no clue what the flavors are but I do like some better than others.  I try looking at the pictures for help in understanding.  If I don’t like the flavor, I’ll add some soy sauce.

Lunch!

Lunch! Dinner only looks different for it is in a bowl and steaming.

That is dinner.  After dinner I clean the pots with paper towels and eat a piece of fruit.  By this time it is normally about 8 pm.  I go back to my room and either read, enter data (not fun) or I do my favorite activity of punching holes into straws.  Yeap, punching holes into straws.  This is so that the cores can dry more efficiently and not mold.  First I take the straws out of their plastic wrappers, then I use a hole puncher to punch holes along the straw.

At 9 pm the generator is turned off and all but emergency lights.  I read with my headlamp until maybe 9:30 or 10 pm and then I pass out till morning to start the routine all over again.

Forests of Norikura

The forest (mori) is dominated by three species of trees on Norikura: Kaba (Birch), Momi (Fir) and Haimatsu (creeping pine).  The lowest elevation plots and nearest to the cabin are momi forest with some Kaba and Spruce.  There is an occasional Haimatsue tree in the area but mainly on large rocks that appear to be glacial erratic s except for the fact that Norikura is a volcano, but large rocks none the less.

Haimatsu on rock

 Haimatsu growing on a rock.

momi forest

The momi forest is dominated by momi, but also has kaba, hiamatsu and some spruce in it.

The Momi forest is relatively open and easily walked through standing up, this cannot be said for the other forest types.  The understory shrubs are largely composed of Alder and Rowan (Sorbus).  Above the Momi forest is the Kaba forest.  The Kaba forest is dominated by birch with some momi and lots of haimatsu.  There are fewer shrubs in the Kaba forest than the Momi forest but that is because much of the open canopy space is filled by haimatsu.  However, when the shrubs exist they are a combination of Alder, Sorbus, and Rhododendron.

kaba_forest_shrubs

 View inside the kaba forest, lots of sorbus

Okii_kaba

There are some really big kaba in the forest.

Above the Kaba forest is the Haimatsu forest.  The Haimatsu is still a new thing for me.  It is about 2-3 meters tall on average and most of the stems lead downhill.  The stems reroot  both whenever they touch the ground and adventitious into the air, in hops to connect with the ground during the winter, perhaps.  Older portions rot out so it is hard to say where the trees begin.  Many trees might once have been part of the same individual but really it is hard to identify.  So we try our best and make up rules to go by.  I have been following Dr. Takahashi’s which is where ever the stem was last rooted is where the stem is from, though sometimes this does not seem satisfying it has proven handy for sometimes I spend 30minutes just looking at a tree trying to tell where it came from.

haimatsu roots

Adventitious roots

haimatsu inside

View from inside the hiamatsu forest

haimatsu outside

View from the outside of the forest.

Haimatsu like many other pine species that grow at high elevation have small cones with seeds that are transported not by wind but by birds.  The North American version of this bird is the Clark’s Nutcracker, the Japanese version is found throughout Eurasia.  Thus it is named the Eurasian Nutcracker or Spotted Nutcracker.

Spotted Nutcracker

It was not until late in my stay at Norikura that I asked what Haimatsu means for Hai = yes and matsu = pine, does that make it a yes pine? Yes it is a pine but that is not what the name means.  Originally, the name was Haumatsu, hau= creep.  But so it means creeping pine, but somewhere along the evolution of the name Haumatsu became Haimatsu.  Though creeping pine makes much more sense than yes pine.