Busójárás

This time around, I will be focused on the celebration of Busójárás, a week-long celebration that is coming up starting February 24th! This festival is celebrated in the small village of Mohács, Hungary, which has an estimated population of not quite 18,000 people. In the local language, the celebration is called Farsang. This wild event culminates with people dressed as Busos (large furry creatures) walking the streets and stirring up the crowd.

The origin of this particular holiday is very interesting to me. I found that it is in part a celebration of the 1526 Battle of Mohács, during which Hungarian villagers are said to have donned monster disguises and scared off part of the invading Ottoman army. However, upon learning more, I saw that this battle was actually a definitive loss for Hungary, and marked a turning point after which the country declined in power and well-being. I still don’t entirely understand why the event is marked with such an upbeat tradition, except for that it represents resilience and a success for the Hungarians against daunting odds.

Aside from the historical roots, the celebration is also a time to “scare off” winter and welcome spring. One custom includes a straw man being carted into the town and burned to mark this transition, while townspeople hold hands and dance around the bonfire. The event has roots in Paganism, recognizing the perpetual cycle of life and death.

While holding deep meaning, this Bacchanalian festival is anything but somber. Visitors are warned that it is virtually impossible to attend without being pulled into the mix. All rules are ignored during Busójárás. (In fact, many believe it is largely this event that kept the village’s small population going, as many children were historically conceived at this time and lineage was never questioned). The Busos wander the town drinking spiced wine and homemade brandy. Being very drunk, they often throw flour at the crowds or pull someone in for a dance.

The Buso costumes are thoughtfully crafted, composed of a sheepskin cloak and stockings under men’s pants. Most Busos are men, but traditional women’s stockings are worn in the Pagan tradition of embracing both the masculine and feminine. The masks are also specially carved for each performer, meant to not only alter their appearance but the person inside the costume. In contrast to the disguise’s fearsome beginning, the Busos are friendly and playful.

This celebration is rooted in rich history, but continues as a raucous and hopeful holiday centuries later. Parades, musical celebrations, and of course the walking of the Busos will occur next week from February 24th-March 1st!