From Waste to Purpose: Empowering Ghanaian Communities Through Participatory Research in the Fight Against Fast Fashion
By Stephanie Aud
About 15 million tons of discarded and donated clothing arrive in Ghana weekly, overwhelming local markets and landscapes with fabric waste from the world’s most affluent countries (Awal, 2024). Yet, in a testament to their resilience, the local communities have risen to the challenge through their participatory research in repurposing and upcycling projects (The Revival: Upcycling and Circular Economy, Ghanaian Creative Solutions to Global Textile Waste | Department of Economic and Social Affairs, 2024). These initiatives not only mitigate the impact of global consumerism but also draw essential global attention to the broader issues of fast fashion, showcasing a sustainable waste management model and economic resilience that can inspire change worldwide.
The Problem of Fast Fashion in Ghana
The fast fashion waste crisis in Ghana is not just a local issue, but a global problem. Each week local markets and landscapes are overwhelmed with fabric waste from the world’s most affluent countries as enormous amounts of textiles flood into the country (Awal, 2024). This influx, primarily absorbed by markets like Kantamanto in Accra, leads to enormous waste accumulation. Many of these imports are unsalvageable, contributing to the environmental degradation as they are discarded in landfills and local waterways (Johnson, 2024). Areas like Korle Lagoon and Old Fadama bear the brunt of this waste, exacerbating the pollution. Korle Lagoon, once a thriving ecosystem, has become one of the most polluted bodies of water globally, filled with textile waste that harms aquatic life and disrupts local ecosystems (Johnson, 2024). The health and economic stability of the local communities are also at stake. Residents of areas like Old Fadama live amidst these hazardous materials, facing increased health risks and diminished living conditions. Economically, the market’s saturation with low-quality, often unsellable goods undermines the livelihoods of thousands who depend on selling these clothes (Lorenz, 2021). This dynamic illustrates a complex challenge where what is meant to be an economic boon instead fosters a cycle of poverty and environmental harm, highlighting the urgent need for sustainable solutions in waste management and economic practices.
Participatory Research as a Response
Participatory research in Ghana has emerged as a powerful tool in the fight against the fast fashion crisis (The Revival: Upcycling and Circular Economy, Ghanaian Creative Solutions to Global Textile Waste | Department of Economic and Social Affairs, 2024). It embodies a collaborative approach where local communities actively identify problems and devise tangible solutions, particularly in the textile sector. This method is strengthened by stakeholders from various parts of the community working together to tackle the fast fashion crisis by repurposing and upcycling discarded clothing (AfricaNews, 2023). Because they live in the community and are affected by this problem firsthand, they are best equipped to gauge the impact of interventions they are testing (AfricaNews, 2023). This collaborative process addresses immediate environmental and economic issues and empowers local communities to influence sustainable practices without waiting for global think tanks to devise an intervention. It is a testament to the power of community-driven solutions in addressing complex global issues.
In markets like Kantamanto, local artisans and traders are turning the tide on waste by transforming unusable garments into new, valuable products. For example, damaged textiles are creatively repurposed into accessories, home decor items, and even new garments, which are then sold locally and internationally (FRANCE 24 English, 2023) (AfricaNews, 2023). These community-led initiatives not only demonstrate a robust circular economy model but also how local actions can have a global impact, adding value to the local economy and inspiring change worldwide.
The benefits of such participatory research and community engagement are far-reaching and impactful. Environmentally, it significantly reduces the waste destined for landfills and polluted areas like Korle Lagoon, offering hope in the face of environmental degradation (Lorenz, 2021). Economically, it opens up new avenues for income generation for local communities, turning a potential economic liability into an asset (FRANCE 24 English, 2023). Socially, it enhances community cohesion and provides a platform for locals to contribute actively to environmental conservation efforts, fostering a sense of agency and purpose (Johnson, 2024). This holistic approach not only alleviates the impact of fast fashion but also showcases a scalable model of environmental stewardship and economic resilience that can inspire similar initiatives globally.
Conclusion
Ghana’s approach to tackling fast fashion waste through community-led initiatives provides a vital blueprint for sustainable development. These local actions lead to significant environmental and economic improvements and, importantly, demonstrate the potential for global application. This model inspires other communities worldwide to embrace participatory research and implement community-driven solutions, effectively addressing the challenges of fast fashion. By advocating for changes in the culture of fast fashion and holding manufacturers accountable, we can foster a global shift towards more sustainable practices, transforming local innovations into global solutions for environmental sustainability.
References:
AfricaNews. (2023, January 13). Ghana: Turning clothing waste into artworks. Africanews. https://www.africanews.com/2023/01/13/ghana-turning-clothing-waste-into-artworks//
Awal, M. (2024, February 7). Ghana struggling with tsunami of secondhand clothes. phys.org. Retrieved April 14, 2024, from https://phys.org/news/2024-02-ghana-struggling-tsunami-secondhand.html#:~:text=Its%20traders%20import%20a%20staggering,crisis%20and%20harming%20the%20environment.
FRANCE 24 English. (2023, June 21). Ghanaian designer turns discarded clothes from the West into high fashion • FRANCE 24 English [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8L7qoRSGevA
Johnson, S. (2024, February 8). ‘It’s like a death pit’: how Ghana became fast fashion’s dumping ground. The Guardian. https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2023/jun/05/yvette-yaa-konadu-tetteh-how-ghana-became-fast-fashions-dumping-ground
Lorenz, J. (2021, February 3). Decolonising fashion: How an influx of ‘Dead White Man’s clothes’ is affecting Ghana. Eco-Age. https://eco-age.com/resources/decolonising-fashion-dead-white-mans-clothes-ghana/
The Revival: Upcycling and Circular Economy, Ghanaian Creative solutions to Global Textile Waste | Department of Economic and Social Affairs. (2024, June 15). https://sdgs.un.org/partnerships/revival-upcycling-and-circular-economy-ghanaian-creative-solutions-global-textile