What’s in a Name? Nepotism in the Fashion Industry

When thinking of today’s “it girls” in fashion and modeling, the mind immediately goes to models like Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Lily Rose Depp. Aside from their beautiful faces and bodies, they have better connections in the industry. These supermodels with some of the largest followings in the world are the product of some of the most well-known celebrities. Dominating runways, ad-campaigns, and gracing the covers of well known magazines like Vogue has become an easy task for these models of nepotism. Lesser-known models with just as much beauty and talent have been pushed aside and had jobs taken away from them. This issue here is not their lack of beauty of modeling talent, but that their takeover of the fashion industry has suppressed the creativity of the industry.

In November 2017, Kendall Jenner surpassed Giselle Bündchen as the year’s highest earning model, passing the torch from the old generation to the new. However, Kendall Jenner is a member of the high-profile Kardashian family, and has received much criticism from members of the fashion community. Jenner describes her approach to modeling in an interview with LOVE Magazine, “Since the beginning, we’ve been super selective about what shows I would do… I was never one of those girls who would do like 30 shows a season or whatever the fuck those girls do. More power to ‘em. But I had a million jobs, not only catwalks but everything else. The whole combination was very overwhelming and I started to freak out a little bit and needed to take a step back.” This comment did not sit well with many people in the industry, calling Jenner “privileged”  in being so selective. Not all models come from celebrity dynasties to fall back on and each job they get is a source of income. Hardly anyone in the industry has “a million jobs”, causing Jenner to come off as obnoxious and lacking self-awareness. Jenner’s success has led to bitterness and jealousy from other models, seen by an incident that occurred in 2014 when Jenner was just starting out. Backstage at a fashion show it was reported that other models had bullied Jenner and put out their cigarettes in her drinks. Another bullying incident occurred the next year at the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show.

Gigi and Bella Hadid, supermodel daughters of ex-supermodel Yolanda Hadid and real estate tycoon Mohamed Hadid, are a prime example of  modeling nepotism. These girls were raised to be supermodels, having everything they consumed controlled by their mother since they were children. Scenes of this can be shown in Real Housewives of Beverly Hills in where their mother, Yolanda, was a star. Gigi started modeling at the age of four for Guess and had access to large brands like these because of their parent’s establishment in the industry. Over the past few years the Fashion Awards portrays this nepotism, having Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid, Kaia Gerber, and Kendall Jenner nominees and winners of Model of the Year. Recently, the nominees for the award have become more diversified with models like Anna Ewers and Adwoa Aboah.

Lily-Rose Depp, daughter of Johnny Depp and model Vanessa Paradis, became the face of Chanel in 2016 like her mother years before. She talks about her experience with Chanel in a sweet, nostalgic way saying: “My mum has worked with them since she was 18 and I’ve gone to the store with her since I was little.” Look beyond this poetic statement and it shows how the privileged stay privileged. Karl Lagerfeld was a family friend to Depp and Paradis, so once Lily-Rose decided she wanted to venture into fashion the only thing to be done was make a call. Being an unconventional model, standing at five feet three inches, Lily-Rose should have had some difficulty making it in the modeling industry, but because of her familial connections she was the face of a high fashion brand as her first ad-campaign.

Seeing the children of famous celebrities brings up a sort of nostalgia, something the younger generations seem to eat up. Nepotism is in every industry today, so it is not uncommon, but is so prevalent in the fashion industry to the point of insanity. In an industry where models are seen as clothing hangers, the issue of nepotism is a reminder to aspiring models that it will be extremely difficult to make a name for themselves unless they have a large following or a famous family to fall back on.

Iconic First Lady Outfits

In honor of the recent inauguration, I will be reviewing the best first lady outfits and their impact on fashion and politics.

Jacqueline Kennedy

Although her time in the White house was short lived, Jackie Kennedy’s impact was something Americans had never seen. The presidency had never seen such youth, style, and culture. Shortly after her husband had been elected, she announced that she wanted to transform the White House into a “showcase of American art and history.” Jackie’s unofficial secretary of style, Oleg Cassini, was a fashion designer to the stars. For the swearing in of JFK, Jackie wore an A-line dress and coat designed by Cassini himself. The beige look featured oversized buttons and the iconic matching pillbox hat. As for the gala, Jackie played a role in the design of her gown. She sent a sketch to Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Custom Salon, and the result was a columnar, off-white, sleeveless gown of silk chiffon with a chiffon overlay embellished with silver thread embroidery. These looks kickstarted her career as a fashion icon.

Nancy Regan

Being a Hollywood figure and experiencing life in the spotlight, Nancy Regan knew what is meant to be in the public eye. She appreciated and had an eye for fashion which made her a style marker. At Ronald Regan’s swearing in ceremony in 1981, Nancy wore a coat and hat in a color commonly known as “Regan Red” designed by Adolfo. For the ball she was a James Galanos heavily beaded, one-shoulder gown with a lace overlay. At Regan’s second swearing in ceremony in 1985, Nancy wore an Adolfo electric blue suit with gold chain jewelry and button earrings. For the ball she wore a Galanos white and silver beaded evening gown, with more art-deco inspired beading, which took more than 300 hours to apply.

Melania Trump

Melania Trump is one of the most fashionable first ladies beyond Inauguration Day. In 2017 Melania Trump wore a sky blue Ralph Lauren cashmere ensemble for the swearing in ceremony. At the inauguration ball she wore a vanilla silk crepe off-the-shoulder gown, designed by Hervé Pierre, that was cinched with a claret ribbon around the waist.

Jill Biden

At Joe Biden’s swearing-in ceremony in 2021, Jill Biden wore a  robin’s egg blue coat from the young New York–based label Markarian, created by designer Alexandra O’Neill. The coat is custom made and embroidered with Swarovski crystals for added sheen. Of course, the look comes with an accessory never before worn at an inaugural ceremony—a face mask. The covering is a reminder for future generations that, despite the celebrations of our new president, there is a pandemic still devastating the country.

“This I Believe” Draft

I believe in soulmates. A soulmate connection is a feeling like no other. In life, you realize there is a role for everyone you meet. Some will test you, some will use you, some will love you, and some will teach you. But the ones who are truly important are the ones who bring out the best in you. They are the rare and amazing people who remind you it’s worth it.

In June 1970 my grandparents met. They were from the same village in their home country of Montenegro, then Yugoslavia. My grandfather, Palja, was in the Yugoslavian army special forces from the time he was a teenager to his twenties. When he returned home from serving, he knew he had to get married, so his parents set up an arranged marriage. He met my grandmother Lezja the day of their engagement, the second he saw her he was in love. Enamored by her beautiful green eyes and infectious smile, he knew this woman would be the love of his life. As they grew to know each other he only fell more and more in love. They complemented one another in the best ways possible and still do and connected on such a deep level far beyond just romantically.

After just a month of being engaged they traveled Europe for months, eventually finding themselves living in Italy for three years. They eventually moved to America and got married in July of 1974. They lived in a small apartment in New York in the South Bronx and had my mother in 1976. They were infatuated with her, she was the product of their love for each other.

Coming to America they did not have much money, my grandfather worked tirelessly as an electrician and was rarely home. The first few years in America were difficult for them, they had no money and could barely afford their rent. Despite this my grandmother continued to push my grandfather, she wanted him to be the best possible version of himself and to become what he wanted most to be: successful. Every word she spoke, every piece of advice she gave was so he could achieve his goals. Because she pushed him and motivated him with her words, wisdom, and love, he ended up achieving his goals.

Now, my grandparents have three children, seven grandchildren, and are as happy as ever 50 years later. They share an unspoken, unexplainable bond that holds the two of them together where they’re happy and the best versions of themselves, knowing they were always meant to be together. It is easy to tell their love for each other has never faded, they way my grandfather looks at her and watches her in such an adoring way proves this. He always says, “Kad je vidim, kao prvi put”, meaning “when I see her, its like the first time”.

A soulmate is someone you connect with in a way that is deeper than you thought possible. You connect with them in a way that is romantic, but also strongly emotional. And this connection is far deeper than any connection you’ve had with anyone else. A soulmate treats you with kindness and generosity and brings out the best in you. A soulmate is more than just a person who shares a certain percentage of things in common with you. In fact, a soulmate may not even have a lot in common with you, but you nonetheless are right for each other. It’s an unspoken, unexplainable bond that holds the two of you together where you’re happy and the best versions of yourselves. You know that it just feels right to be together. Finding your soulmate is deeper than making a checklist of traits you like in someone and seeing if someone meets it. It’s hard to define, but you know it when you see and feel it.

 

RCL Blog Brainstorming

Passion Blog:

Trends We’re Leaving in 2020- after an awful year it only makes sense to leave the worst fashion trends of 2020 behind and move forward into 2021.

Iconic First Lady Outfits- in honor of the recent inauguration I will be reviewing the best first lady outfits and their impact on fashion and politics.

Civic Issues Blog:

Politics, the inauguration of President Biden, and what that means for Americans.

Racial equality/inequality, the Black Lives Matter movement, and that impacts POC.

“This I Believe” Podcast Ideas:

The existence of soulmates

All people are born good

TED Talk Review

I thought my TED Talk was done well, I covered all of my main points and got the message that I was trying to convey across. I memorized most of my presentation, just needed a note card for statistics and spoke in a compelling way. I think a weakness of mine is that at the end of my presentation I went off on a tangent and kept repeating the same ideas for change in terms of the mistreatment of garment workers in other countries. A strength of mine was being able to get all my information across in way that made my presentation interesting and the tone of my voice showed that I was passionate about the topic and knew what I was talking about.

 

Karl Lagerfeld and the Chanel Renaissance

Karl Lagerfeld. One of the biggest names in fashion, who passed almost three years ago, left behind one of the greatest legacies in fashion. Renowned for his genius and reinvention of the bland and tired Chanel brand, Lagerfeld was also known for his derogatory comments against women. In 2018 when stylist Karl Temper was accused of inappropriately touching models, Lagerfeld defended him saying “If you don’t want your pants pulled about, don’t become a model! Join a nunnery, there’ll always be a place for you in the convent.” His attitude towards the mistreatment of models and inappropriate misconduct is the same attitude that protects sexual abusers in the fashion industry. I’ve never liked Karl Lagerfeld after finding that he is misogynistic and fatphobic, claiming that “No one wants to see curvy women on the runway.” But, at the same time you have to respect his genius. The man was a legend.

What is so special about Lagerfeld? Going back in history, Coco Chanel started her fashion house and was a pioneer in women’s fashion. However, after her death the brand remained stagnant until Lagerfeld took over 1982. He had a plan to completely transform the brand and make Chanel trendy again. Karl, being a self-professed fashion opportunist, mastered picking trends and combining them with Coco Chanel’s iconic elements to bring the brand commercial success. He made references to modern-day popularities like 90s hip hop and grunge looks with chain belts, oversized pants, gold necklaces, dyed hair, and contrast-stitch denim. In his ready-to-wear show in 1994, Lagerfeld introduced activewear that wasn’t just for the gym with models rollerskating down the runway holding “designer water”. Holders for your water with long, gold chains and cell phone holders and cases stormed runways after this burst of genius. This collection anticipated Juicy Couture by almost a decade with its velour tracksuits.

Lagerfeld upheld Coco Chanel’s fondness for pearls and elegance, but tapped into new levels of maximalism that reestablished the brand entirely. Tweed was prominent throughout the brands history, like Jackie Kennedy’s iconic pink tweed suit, but Lagerfeld introduced new, more modern, and synthetic materials like cellophane and Astroturf. The iconic quilted leather bag remained a staple in Chanel, but was transformed into backpacks and belt bags. The signature Chanel black-tipped slingback pumps were joined by platform heels and biker boots. Skirt suits were combined with bras and corsets in a matching pastel tweed. Blazers were matched with tiny shorts, logoed men’s briefs or cropped T-shirts. In his spring 1995 ready-to-wear show, he featured skirts with slits and zips, designed to reveal matching tweed underwear. And though his runways were often styled in a sexy, youthful way, the garments themselves did not alienate the brand’s traditional customers, with the classic Chanel suits being as appropriate as ever for the refined, older woman.

Karl Lagerfeld has contributed much to fashion, and I think it’s fine to be able to celebrate his art whilst criticizing his exclusionary attitude and terrible comments. The fact that a man like Karl, talented as he was, was at the top of the fashion food chain reflects on the industry and its values. His name doesn’t need to be scrubbed out of the fashion archives, but people should think twice before idolizing him as a sartorial saint. There’s a lot of talk about the future of the industry, and though we want his talent, we want none of his hate.

Y2K Fashion

The reemergence of Y2K fashion, the style of the early 2000s, has taken the world by storm. Popularized by Gen Z, we have taken inspiration from icons of the era like Paris Hilton, Brittany Spears, and Christina Aguilera and morphed it with today’s style to create the iconic Y2K fashion. This means the resurgence of low-rise jeans, Juicy Couture tracksuits, baguette bags, mini skirts, and rhinestones. However, since its not a totally popularized style its difficult to find pieces. Fast fashion brands like Shein have started adding Y2K style items to their inventories, however brands like these are terrible for the environment and promote child labor and underpaying workers. A smart alternative is to shop vintage, that means going to thrift stores or buying on websites like Depop and Poshmark. This not only makes fashion more sustainable, but also takes away from fast fashion companies underpaying workers. More recently popular brands like Urban Outfitters, directed at this age range, have started selling pieces to match this style like lacey tops, tracksuits, and more.

Popular brands and their styles from the era have also made an appearance like Dior, Louis Vuitton, John Galliano, Prada, and Theirry Mugler. Obviously these are still popular and well known brands but its their specific styles that have made a comeback. The Dior saddle bag was a staple of the early 2000s and its recent popularization caused the brand to restock and add more variations of styles. The small Louis Vuitton shoulder bag and their denim patchwork purse have resurfaced in thrift stores across the country, making them more affordable and available to those who can’t afford a brand new designer item. The iconic John Galliano newspaper print dress, shown on Carrie Bradshaw on Sex and the City, is making its way back as well as other variations of the print on pants, bags, jackets, and more. Theirry Mugler, the iconic designer from the 1980s to 2000s, has been popularized again by celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Bella Hadid causing him to reboot his brand. Lastly, the well-known Prada nylon shoulder bag is probably the most popular of the designer pieces making a comeback. It made a name for itself in the early 2000s seen on countless celebrities and with the reemergence of Y2K style it came back more popular and desired than ever. It can be found in vintage shops and websites, as well as in the Prada store as they restocked since its recent popularization creating re-editions. 

“Looks aren’t everything. Believe me, I’m a model.”

The TED Talk titled “Looks aren’t everything. Believe me, I’m a model” done by model Cameron Russel is one of the most memorable and one of my personal favorite TED Talks. I first saw this TED Talk years ago when I was in the seventh grade and it has stuck with me to this day. Russel admits she won the “genetic lottery”, she was a normal girl born to be a model. She was always tall, thin, and beautiful, the prerequisite for being a model. She knows she is privileged, she is a pretty, white woman and in the modeling industry she is seen as sexy and has been sexualized since she began modeling at age 16. When you’re a model and you’re at that level of the industry’s definition of “beauty”, things come easy to you because people judge you and make these judgements based on how you look. Most people associate being beautiful with being thin, leaving 78% of 17 year old girls with body issues and disorders like body dysmorphia, anorexia, bulimia, and countless others. A common belief among young women is that if they are thin and beautiful they will be happy, but in reality the women who have achieved that are some of the most insecure women in the world. Of course you receive things for your appearance but those things don’t make you happy because in the end they are just things. People don’t perceive you for who you really are, they base their judgements on your appearance. This is my favorite TED Talk because it’s something I relate to, I had always been self conscious about the way I look, how much I weigh, and other people’s perceptions of me. I had always believed if I had achieved these things, being beautiful and thin, I would be happier and people would like me more. However, this is not the case and seeing this for the first time at such a young age benefitted me immensely. Hearing these statements coming from a highly respected model who has worked with brands like Victoria’s Secret that set this standard of beauty made me realize I would rather have people judge me on my achievements and the things I’ve done, not the way I look. I still watch this TED Talk from time to time and have shown it to my younger sisters because I want them to know from a young age that being beautiful and thin isn’t everything, its who you are and what you have done in your life.

Unit Two Project Topics:

Body positivity

The negative impacts of the modeling industry

Fast fashion

Fall Fashion Trends

Overall, this falls fashion trends have been a personal favorite of mine and truly embody the fall spirit. The colors, patterns, and materials seen on runways and street style radiate a fall energy. The theme for this fall is more of a Parisian look with a lot of neutrals and basics paired together to create a chic look. Some of my favorite trends include brown, leather, sweater vests, and riding boots.

As for the “in” colors for this fall, brown is making a huge appearance. Brown is usually seen as a boring or ugly color but this seasons trends show the opposite. Brown leather has been especially popular, my favorite being the brown leather Melina pant from Aritzia. After this season I feel that the preconceived notions about the color brown will be thrown out the window and will be a staple in fall fashion for many years to come. Similar to the other fall color trend, pistachio green, which had always been thought of as ugly. Pistachio green and lavender were the popular colors of last fall, being seen on countless runways, but green became a staple for this fall as well and has become a staple. At first I was unsure if it was just a quick seasonal trend and refrained from buying pieces in that color, but it grew on me and its now one of my favorite colors to wear.

Particular pieces that have shown up frequently are sweater vests. This paired with a loose button down blouse makes the perfect look for this fall. Again, this was something that I was hesitant about trying, but fashion is all about risks and I just ordered one to try out. My favorite outfit that I’ve seen is a black and white patterned sweater vest over a white blouse paired with a black mini skirt and riding boots.

The shoe trends for this season are my all time favorites. Each fall there are always popular boot trends that never fail to amaze me, last year it was Victorian style lace-up boots with a pointed toe. This year, it’s quite the opposite. Riding boots have always been popular, but more so this year with the Parisian influence. They are basic, neutral, and chic and I absolutely love them. Another boot trend for this fall are high, chunky Chelsea boots. Popularized by Frame, this style of boots have been seen everywhere from supermodels, to influencers, to everyday people with great fashion sense. They are a funky take on the classic black Chelsea boot which I think characterizes fashion trends of today. Square toe boots are making a comeback and  are replacing the classic pointed toe shoe, which I personally like more not only for comfort but also for personal preference. Square toe shoes were a staple of the early 2000s and have earned their place as a staple of fall fashion in recent years.