Have you ever had the opportunity to visit a place you’ve only seen on the evening news? Was that place outside of your home country? I have been fortunate enough to do both and I learned a great deal more than I expected. In 2008 I was deployed to Baghdad, Iraq for 12 months in as part of a police training team. Our mission was to train local Iraqi police officers in every aspect of their duties, which meant spending considerable time with them in their stations, neighborhoods and among the locals throughout the city. Experiencing a culture so different from my own was shocking at first but ended up being one of my most enlightening. There are key tips that anyone travelling to this country should know.
Know Your Neighbors
The peoples of Iraq are made up of an interesting blend of ethnic and religious groups (Moran, Abramson, & Moran, 2011). Upon arriving in Iraq, a keen observer will notice that there are a few prevalent styles, especially among the men. Not simply fashion choices, the garb and decoration of the people you meet may convey important information. For example, most of the men you will meet wear a keffiyeh (also known as a schemagh or head scarf). The color and pattern of these may reveal important information about who you are meeting. A white keffiyeh probably means the wearer hasn’t made the Haj (a religious pilgrimage) while wearers of red/black or white/black checkered keffiyeh’s probably have (Marine Corps Intelligence Activity, 2006).
In my experience, I also observed that wearers of dark green or black keffiyeh’s wrapped tightly were usually members of the Shia sect of Islam while those wearing white (as a base color) or other light colors wrapped loosely were members of the Sunni sect. Furthermore, Iraqi’s from urban areas favored the red/black checkered pattern while those from rural areas preferred white or green as a base. All of these are important because there are different social norms between these groups, especially Shiite and Sunni Muslims, including different holidays, food and sometimes even languages!
Finally, a person’s dress may indicate their social standing. Iraqi’s are still very much organized by families, clans and tribes. Each of these has elder members and many a Sheik, who can be recognized by his intricate robes, always trimmed in gold.
Meeting New People
There some key differences from western etiquette to consider when meeting with Iraqis. Socially organized first along gender lines, it’s important to note who is speaking and who is being spoken to. It is generally inappropriate for a male to first address a female in a mixed group, instead you should greet the most important male of the group (the boss or head of a household) first, then the rest. In addition, males should not stand or sit closely to females or attempt physical contact unless the female initiates it herself (Marine Corps Intelligence Activity, 2006).
Physical interactions are important, as Iraqis value personal relationships as part of professional interactions. When talking with Iraqi men do not slouch, turn away or otherwise appear distracted and never sit in such a way that exposes the sole of your shoe as all of these will be perceived as rude (Marine Corps Intelligence Activity, 2006). Part of meaningful conversation between males is closeness. Iraqi men will frequently embrace and kiss one another on the cheek or neck when greeting each other. Many will even hold hands while talking, especially when walking or standing outside (Marine Corps Intelligence Activity, 2006). Like many cultures, I found that Iraqis dislike shaking a gloved hand and made sure to remove any coverings before greeting someone. Finally, never use your left hand for eating or shaking as Iraqis consider it unclean.
Enjoy Scenic Iraq
Though a times a dangerous country, Iraq is somewhat stigmatized by its recent history of warfare and violence. Beneath the turmoil, Iraq is a fascinating country that embodies the best of middle eastern culture. An ancient land, Iraq is the home of some of the world’s oldest civilizations and carries that tradition into modernity. Iraqis are generally polite, inviting people that are generous to strangers despite their sometimes-meager means. Like anywhere else, politeness will take you far in Iraq and if you follow these guidelines, I think you will enjoy as informative an experience as I did.
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Marine Corps Intelligence Activity. (2006). Iraq Culture Smart Card. Retrieved from Guide for Cultural Awareness: https://fas.org/irp/doddir/usmc/iraqsmart-0506.pdf
Moran, R. T., Abramson, N. R., & Moran, S. V. (2011). Managing Cultural Differences. New York: Routledge.
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