As part of my work on the Humans of Penn State project this past week, I had the pleasure of speaking with Ana, one of the kind people who clean Simmons. Ana moved to Pennsylvania from Peru when she was 17 years old, and as we got to talking about South America I mentioned that I was applying to study in Argentina next year. She promptly told me, “Don’t fall in love with any of those assholes there,” which made me laugh, though I can’t promise that I won’t fall in love with Buenos Aires itself. For my final post, I want to share with you some more about the beautiful city in which I hope to spend next spring semester. Buenos Aires is divided into 48 barrios (neighborhoods), but I’m going to focus on some of the ones that are well-recognized for their unique flair.

La Boca

Perhaps the most vibrant barrio in all of Argentina, the brilliant colors of La Boca reflect the diversity of its inhabitants. If you recall from my earlier post on the tango, La Boca is home to mainly working-class immigrants. It is located right on the water, so immigrants entering the country settled close to the ports that would provide many of them with work. The two most salient features of La Boca are La Bombonera and El Caminito.

El Caminito is a stretch that showcases the vibrant homes that adorn La Boca. Possibly, immigrants simply searched around shipyards for whatever paints they could find, hence the outrageous colors.

La Bombonera (or ‘chocolate box’ in English) is the home of Boca Juniors, one of BA’s clubes de fútbol and a part of the Argentine Primera División. Las hinchas (fans) have been known to get pretty intense, especially when playing cross-town rival River Plate.

Recoleta

Considered to be ‘Little Paris’ within Buenos Aires, Recoleta is the most posh barrio in the city. During a yellow fever epidemic in 1817, the wealthy of BA moved to this area due to its proximity to the cemetery. The cemetery is the most popular tourist attraction in this barrio, as it holds the tomb of Eva Perón.

Montserrat

Monserrat is the Capitol Hill of BA, as it is the domain of several government buildings, including the Casa Rosada, the home of the president.

In front of the Casa Rosada is the Plaza de Mayo, where one can find some of the most interesting inhabitants of BA, the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. In 1976, Argentina experienced a military coup that brought heavy political oppression. Up to 30,000 people ‘disappeared’, and the Madres convene in front of the president’s home weekly to demand answers. When the military government was disbanded, the offenders were granted amnesty, so the Madres seek justice for the children and grandchildren they lost.

Finally, the most commonly associated symbol of Buenos Aires: the obelisk of BA, which lies in the middle of 9 de Julio. Named after the Argentine Independence Day, 9 de Julio is the widest avenue in the world with 9 lanes of traffic plus pedestrian lanes.

I cannot wait to explore these and several of the other gems BA has to offer. Thanks for reading my posts every week. I hope you learned something new or at least enjoyed the photos.  Hasta luego, amigos

References

http://www.buenosaireshabitat.com/buenos-aires-neighborhoods/recoleta.html

http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/city-guides/buenos-aires-walking-tour-3/

http://wander-argentina.com/the-obelisk-yesterday-and-today/

Images

http://repensandolarealidad.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/caminito.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5y82mX71tjA/T-Mk0sxSdHI/AAAAAAAAAO4/tCHwH3XDcAY/s1600/images.jpg

http://www.visittangobuenosaires.com/images/Lindh%20photos/CasaRosada-MVC-329F.JPG

http://socialhistory.org/sites/default/files/plaza1.jpg

http://www.forodefotos.com/attachments/argentina/25431d1318961872-fotos-del-obelisco-en-buenos-aires-plaza-obelisco.jpg

As the Christian season of Lent comes to a close, people all over Spain (especially in larger cities, such as Madrid and Sevilla) are in the midst of frenzied preparation. While most people in the US will buy some eggs or chocolate, the Spanish partake in elaborate, religiously significant celebrations for a whole week.

La Semana Santa, or Holy week, begins on Palm Sunday (el Domingo de Ramos) and ends on Easter (La Pascua.) Every day of the week, there are processions through the street.

Preparation for this event takes a coordinated effort, organized by cofradías, or ‘brotherhoods’ in English. These groups were first formed in the 1700s for the purpose of heading the Semana Santa celebration. While they are lay people (not priests, monks, etc.) they strictly adhere to the Catholic faith so as to ensure that their rituals remain religious in nature and do not devolve into pageantry. They are also responsible for taking care of the Jesus and Mary figures when they are not being paraded through the streets.

One of the tasks of the cofradías is to find the literal manpower to power the procesiones. Those large, marble altars and statues are not deposited on the backs of trucks or trolleys; they are carried on the backs of men from the community, costaleros. It is not uncommon for it to require a dozen or more men per structure. The size of the objects and the manner in which they are carried make it impossible for the costaleros to see where they are going. This makes the task of the cofradías that much more difficult, as they must coordinate the timing of it all to allow for saetas. A saeta is a special flamenco-like song that is only sung for the Semana Santa processions. It is purely lyrical, there is no musical accompaniment. The costaleros will stop at certain places on the route for saetas, hence the careful coordination. Typically, costaleros will begin practicing weeks in advance to ensure they have the proper rhythm.

Kind of hard as Americans, but do not be freaked out by this picture.

For the record, this predated the KKK. The people who wear this attire are called Nazarenos or Penitentes, and their clothing is a sign of repentance, not hatred. The capirotes, or the pointy hats, symbolizes rising toward the heavens. They conceal their identities in mourning for the pain that Jesus suffered in the days leading up to Easter, and then on that Sunday they take them off with joy. In years past, only men have worn these, but recently more women have been partaking. Nazarenos are seen throughout the entire procession, as you can see in this video. Also check out this one too. They’re not great, but they’re also fairly short (the better ones on YouTube are all 10 minutes or longer. It’s a slow procession.)

Spanish people really like carrying religious articles through the street. When I was in Madrid, I stumbled across a smaller procession. Some crucifix had just turned 150 so they were carrying it around to different churches. So, even if you aren’t religious, it’s pretty interesting to see some customs of a country that shares a common faith. If nothing else it’s a lot more intriguing than human-sized rabbit costumes.

References

http://web.schc.sc.edu/Samantha_Ward_Senior_Thesis/SemanaSanta.html

http://www.euroclubschools.org/page37.htm

It shouldn’t come as a surprise that I am quite the fan of Spanish music. I love it all, from the sappy songs to those that make you want to dance no matter what mood you’re in. However, none can compare to my love of the woman, the legend, the goddess: Shakira.

Shaki was born Shakira Isabel Mebarak Ripoll on February 2, 1977 in Barranquilla, Colombia. Her mother was a Colombian native of Spanish and Italian descent, and her father was a Lebanese American immigrant. The word ‘Shakira’ means ‘grateful’ or ‘full of grace’ in Arabic. She is the youngest of eight siblings.

A rising star from a young age, Shakira began writing as a young child and was gifted a typewriter at age 7 for her poems. She loved performing for anyone who would listen, except for her choir teacher. She was barred from the group for her strong vibrato which “sounded like a goat.”

Not that my girl Shaki would let that get her down. She signed her first record deal at age 13, but her first two albums were less than successful. However, after winning third place in the Viña del Mar International Song festival in Chile and receiving the endorsement of judge Ricky Martin, she took a break to finish high school and came back with Pies Descalzos. On this third album, Shakira took control of every step and started to really develop her own sound. Shakira’s music incorporates some elements of her Colombian and Lebanese heritage. As a matter of fact, it was Shakira’s Lebanese grandmother who taught her Arabian belly dancing, so that she might stay true to her Middle Eastern roots. The album sold a few million copies in South America, but her follow up, ¿Dónde están los ladrones? made it onto Billboard’s Top Latin albums chart.

As a Colombian native, Shakira’s first language is Spanish, though she also speaks Italian, English, and Portuguese. In an effort to increase her fanbase worldwide, Shaki moved to Miami at age 20, went blonde, and made herself start writing in English. Her new manager, Emilio Estefan, helped get her started on the path to becoming the second most successful Latin artist of all time (second only to his wife, Gloria Estefan). With the release of Whenever, Wherever off her first English album, Shakira became a household name.

A pivotal moment in Shakira’s career and personal life came in 2010, when she released Waka Waka (This Time for Africa) for that year’s FIFA World Cup. While filming the music video, she met her boyfriend Gerard Piqué (who appears at 1:11, if you don’t know who he is.) Last January, they had a son, Milan, who is one of the most adorable children I have ever seen in my life.

Shakira is also passionate about giving back to her country, and cites her philanthropic work as her proudest accomplishment. She founded the Pies Descalzos (Bare feet) Foundation, which supports several schools in impoverished areas throughout Colombia. She also serves as a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador and was honored by the UN’s International Labor Organization for her work.

Shaki just released her tenth album, and I would recommend it whole-heartedly. She also released a new song for this year’s World Cup. I prefer the Spanish version, but the English is excellent as well.

Sources

http://www.fundacionpiesdescalzos.com/barefoot-fundation/pages/about/about_main_en.php

http://www.biography.com/people/shakira-189151?page=2

http://www.donquijote.org/culture/colombia/music/shakira.asp

Though this post is a little late and a little out of place (I usually only write about Hispanic-related things and Brazil was colonized by the Portuguese), I wanted to learn some more about this celebration.

Carnaval (as it is spelled in Portuguese) is celebrated during the five days that precede the beginning of the Christian season of Lent. The timing of the holiday itself comes from an ancient Greek spring holiday, which honored Dionysius, the god of wine. It’s pretty safe to say the Church never imagined it becoming such an indulgence in music, dancing, and food.

The festivities did not begin in Brazil until 1723, but they has little in common with the vibrant costumes and dancing that we know today. It began as more of a peasant’s holiday, where people would run around the streets and throw mud and water on each other, often ending in fights or riots. However, as time passed it became gradually more organized until the upper classes got involved with grandes sociedades, where the emperor and aristocrats would parade through the streets wearing masks and elaborate costumes.

By the 1840s, European music had made its way to Brazil, and masquerade balls featuring polkas and waltzes became a part of Carnaval. The parades evolved from grandes sociedades to feature military bands and horse drawn floats; Carnaval had become a working class holiday where all the people could wear costumes and join in the fun.

One cannot have Carnaval without the samba, an electric style of song and dance that came from the formerly enslaved Afro-Brazilians. Its popularity grew in the slums of Rio after slavery was abolished, and around 1917 it became a part of the Carnaval festivities. To this day, the samba is the pride of Brazilian culture, regardless of socioeconomic status. Samba schools still exist to pass on this gem to the younger generations.

However, the dancing and parading are not all about a good time. In the late 20^th century, Brazil experienced a military coup, which led to censorship of speech and press. People would use the sambas of Carnaval to express their frustrations with the government. Samba schools used irony and sarcasm to criticize its actions and demonstrate the people’s desire for freedom.

Though this grand celebration is Brazilian in origin, a few other countries also have smaller Carnaval festivities. These mostly include its neighboring countries, such as Colombia, Uruguay, and Argentina (unfortunately Lent begins earlier next year so I won’t be there.) Several other cultures also have their own ways of celebrating the days before Lent that are unrelated to Carnaval.

Obviously, we need a samba video.

P.S. The title of this post is the title of an awesome salsa song.

http://www.ipanema.com/carnival/history.htm#axzz2xGKr5i44

http://www.rio.com/rio-carnival/history-carnival

http://www.colorado.edu/conflict/full_text_search/AllCRCDocs/95-1.htm

With a reputation for a passionate culture, there is perhaps nothing more Argentine than the heart-stirring, smoldering rhythms of the tango. Though not as popular as it once was in Argentina, the tango has become somewhat of a national symbol. Its multicultural origins reflect the rich history and diversity that the people feel pride in.

The word ‘tango’ is most likely an amalgam of several words, though experts can not seem to agree which ones. Some believe the word comes from the community of African immigrants who blended the word tambor (drum in Spanish),

with the name of a drum god. Many profess that it stems from the Latin tangere (to touch), as the tango was one of few dances at the time where partners embraced as such (see the video for reference) and more intimate than the Viennese waltz or polka.

Much like the US, Argentina is a country of immigrants. In the 1800s, immigrants from all over Europe were already living in Buenos Aires; while the majority were from Spain and Italy, many other countries such as Poland, Britain, Russia, and Germany. Buenos Aires was the melting pot of all these cultures in addition to the South American cultures that already had a stronghold in the city. The tango was born when the European waltzes, polkas, etc. met the habanera from Cuba. Along with this new styles of dance came a new style of music, milonga, which is also used for the place where tango is danced.

In the early 1900s, two million immigrants came to Buenos Aires, and the majority were poor, single men who hoped to earn enough to bring a bride or family over as well. This led to an increase in crime, and tango only became more sensual. Some urban legends claim that tango originated in brothels, but really it was more of a matter of coincidence. The older upper class Argentines rejected the dance, so it went more ‘underground’ to a place where there were actually women to practice with.

Around 1910, the richer young Argentines began visiting Europe and sharing the tango. It was the first couple dance they had seen that involved improvisation, and they completely ate it up. Ironically, the upper classes of Argentina were forced to accept the tango because it became so popular in Paris. It became a worldwide phenomenon, despite its humble origins in the immigrant population of Buenos Aires.

Tango popularity would fluctuate between the years, with a strong revival after World War I. Popularity died in Europe by 1930, and thus began the Golden Age of tango, in which it returned to its roots to develop. It was championed by the Perón nationalist movement of the 1940s and evolved through the work of several artists who made the music and lyrics more relevant to Argentina and its people. The military coup of 1955 that ended Juan Perón’s second presidential term repressed the tango movement, though it gained new life yet again in the 1980s. The newly democratic nation was looking for a national identity, and the tango was the perfect place to begin. Though there is now the issue of whether to continue to evolve the dance or preserve its form, Argentines take much pride in its history and carry on the tradition today.

Sources:

http://www.edinburghtango.org.uk/tango/Historyoftango.php

http://www.history-of-tango.com/tango-origins.html

http://www.unco.edu/clubs/tango/HIstory_1.htm

Ever since I fell in love with Spanish, it has been a goal of mine to continue improving until I can understand and converse with native speakers. Since I scheduled my first courses in college, my plan has been to leave the spring semester of next year open to study abroad in a Spanish-speaking country.

Deciding where to go ended up being a multi-tiered process. First and foremost, I knew I wanted to go somewhere in Latin America, as I had heard from several sources (former teachers, native speakers, etc.) that people who study in countries other than Spain tend to have better Spanish. I’ve never been anywhere in South America, so I figured that would be far enough outside my comfort zone to make the experience worthwhile. Looking into semester programs, there were three that captured my interest: Chile, Ecuador, and Argentina. I was drawn toward the program in Buenos Aires, as everyone I talked to who had visited Argentina only had good things to say, and I also loved the way Argentines speak. Something along the lines of 97% of the Argentine population is of Spanish or Italian descent, so they have a unique accent that is unlike any other South American country. So, Argentina it is.

Many people say that Buenos Aires is like the “Paris of South America.” Initially this had me a bit concerned, as I didn’t want to cheat and go somewhere that’s too similar to what I’m accustomed to. So, I started doing some research and read some really interesting things about Argentine culture and social conventions.

For example, Argentines have what could be considered an offensive sense of humor, and will give their friends nicknames like “gorda” without a second thought. When it comes to meeting new people, third-party introductions are preferred, and when it comes time to leave, you are expected to go around and say goodbye to each person, no matter if you’re in a room of 4 or 50. Also, when Argentines drink mate (a drink brewed from leaves that has the caffeine of coffee) they pass it around amongst friends, so you probably shouldn’t refuse (or touch the metal straw-like thing used to sip it, but I don’t think those are related.)

Naturally, my intrigue only grew the more I read and talked to returned students. As a matter of fact, I’ve already begun compiling a list of the things I want to during my 4-5 months in Buenos Aires. Some of these include:

• Learn to tango
• Have an educated discussion with my host family about Peronism (in Spanish, of course)
• Go south to Patagonia and see a glacier in real life, go north to see Igazú falls, and go west to Mendoza, wine country
• Befriend some porteños, or Buenos Aires natives, in my classes (the program I’m applying to requires that you take at least one class at an actual Argentine university.)
• Attend a fútbol game
• Learn to make empanadas

So, don’t be surprised if this blog becomes a bit Argentine-centric, as saying I’m excited to go would be an understatement.

“Argentina.” Kwintessentiall. Kwintessential, 2014. Web. 20 February 2014.