The Lonely Bear Vineyard story
A young man piloting a UAV down the hill from our house captured this image in 2020. He said his client was the realtor who would soon list this four-and-a-quarter acre property for sale. The view is westward, from an altitude of a couple hundred feet? That’s our house on the ridge at the upper left edge of the image. Our neighbors’ homes line Panorama Drive on the right. The tawny brown field that covers most of the property is bounded along its southern edge by eucalyptus trees, sage and rosemary. An abandoned horse corral sits behind an overgrown deodora cedar. The field occupies a hollow (or “holler” as they’d say in Appalachia) formed by drainage from the foothills of the San Bernardino Mountains (off camera to the north). An outcrop named Crafton Hills appears a couple miles away to the west. Los Angeles is about 75 miles further west – a world away from our quasi-rural City of Yucaipa.
Several families have lived in the neighborhood since homes were built in the 1950s. One family on Panorama Drive owned the hollow as long as anyone can remember. The family is in the construction business. Their patriarch dreamed of subdividing the hollow and building houses for his kids. (If you look close, you may notice that the field is terraced into four levels from front to back.) Apparently the City’s conditions for permits to develop the property were so onerous that the houses were never built. The field remained more or less as it was when neighbors played in it as kids. Still, the owners asserted rights to their private property – though the young granddaughter who posted the sign pictured above noted that “David and Tao” (Teo, the cocker spaniel puppy I walked in the hollow) were “accepted” from the trespassing rule.
Once or twice a year the owners sent in a tractor to mow the field. Whenever we heard the machinery, all the neighbors bordering the hollow feared that the bulldozers had finally come. Then the young man with the UAV came, and soon after that, the For Sale sign went up on Panorama Drive.
Val and I thought, what if we bought the hollow? Could we rescue it from development? The real estate listing included an asking price that was out of reach for us. But we knew from public records what the family paid for the property years ago. Maybe they were fed up with paying property taxes, and eager to move on? We calculated what we could spare from our 401k’s, and asked our real estate agent to present the owners with a cash offer. To our delight, they accepted; the sale closed on December 10, 2020. The hollow was no longer at risk of development. But what next?
Valerie and I are wine lovers, and love visiting wine country in Paso Robles and Napa Valley. So why not a vineyard? Our neighbor Cesar Roldan inspired the idea. He had planted vines the year before on his property along the south side of our ridge. The hollow’s site and situation seemed promising: plentiful sun exposure and a cool westerly breeze flowing down the hollow every evening. Water probably flows beneath, though who knows how deep (The City ruled out a well)? The 3000′ elevation should take the edge off of sometimes hot summer temperatures. Questions remained about soil, since the lots had been graded and filled years ago beyond anyone’s recollection. But soil tests would help with that.
The hollow is situated within the city limits of Yucaipa, and is zoned residential, but that doesn’t prevent us from planting. We can’t change the zoning, but we don’t have to build housing. Vineyards were popping up all around town at this time. Cesar helped organize a local Wine Alliance, which promoted a Wine Country land use plan, and successfully proposed that parts of Yucaipa be designated as an American Viticultural Area. Cesar had also founded a vineyard construction and maintenance business. We hired them to build the first stage of the vineyard.
Construction started 27 August, 2021. After we sketched a layout, the crew sunk wooden posts at the ends of each row to support the trellis wire that would come later. T-posts were sunk every 20′ or so in between to support the wires, and the black irrigation tubing. More wooden posts formed corners of a surrounding electric fence. Mule deer and black bears are common in these parts.
Planting commenced the following Spring. The vines came from the Duarte Nursery, in California’s Central Valley. The first planting included about 85 Primitivo, and 40-45 each of Mourvèdre, Viognier, Syrah, and Grenache. (A second planting of about 375 more vines followed in 2023, in a somewhat larger lot farther down the holler.) Workmen wrapped each rootstock in chicken wire to stymie gophers and ground squirrels. The guys humored the gringo by letting me plant some of vines.
By July, the young vines were already outgrowing their grow tubes. With the first phase of construction finished, I remained as the sole crew member. My work at this time was mainly mowing weeds with a string trimmer, and making sure the irrigation worked.
The name “Lonely Bear” commemorates a young bear who roamed our neighborhood in 2017, and sometimes took a dip in our pool on hot summer days. One day I heard splashing outside, and was lucky to get pictures of him from our family room window. I watched him (we assume it was a male) swim a couple of laps, then climb out, shake off, hop the fence and move on down the ridge. He never caused much damage, though he did sometimes bite the undulating pool sweeper hose. Teeth marks in the hose confirmed his visits when we weren’t home to see it.
The same neighbor girl who posted the No Trespassing sign (“accepting” me and Teo) thought the young bear looked lonely, since it always roamed alone. After some months, the bear visits stopped. We heard later that the bear had been struck and killed by an automobile on a nearby road. It probably would be raiding our fruit if it had survived.
I had never farmed anything before. I learned about viticulture from books, articles, YouTube videos, observing experienced vineyard workers, and conversations with other growers and winemakers. One lesson was pruning and training young vines. The yearlings shown above exhibit the characteristic trunks and arms (cordons) fastened to trellis wire.
This next image above – taken in early Spring the year after our first harvest – is out of chronological order. I include it here because it shows two things clearly: how our two-year-old vines were “spur pruned” during their winter dormancy, and the “bud burst” that follows in early Spring, when the new year’s shoots, leaves and flowers begin to emerge. The picture also highlights my beloved mulch rows.
This westerly view is from roughly the same perspective as the UAV image shown at the top of this article, but at ground level. In the foreground is the original vineyard (planted in 2022); the newer, lower vineyard (planted Spring 2023) is in the background.
Two mounds of mulch appear just to the right (north) of the electric fence line. I was determined to mulch every vine row thickly, both to deter weeds and to retain water for the young vines. I learned that store-bought mulch is not only expensive, it’s also typically of unknown origin and dubious quality for farming. None of the nurserymen and women I met could say for sure what was in their mulch. Anything might be – even chewed up pallets and other trash.
Eventually I found giant piles of pure orange tree mulch on nearby former orchards that had been cleared for real estate development. I got permission from the property owners to harvest a few hundred cubic yards of the stuff, which I paid a guy to scoop up and truck in for me. I spread the mulch along the vine rows by shovel and wheelbarrow. I’m really proud of that mulch. I just hope I won’t have to reapply it anytime soon!
Two-year-old vines are very, very young. Writing about old vines in Letters from Lodi, Randy Caparoso states “… grapevines as young as three years old can … produce dark, concentrated wines. Because of their matured plant morphology, however, older vines are more likely to produce wines with sensory attributes reflecting a specific vineyard or region.” Turley Wine Cellars calls Zinfandel wines made from grape vines 6-25 years old “Juvenile.” Even so, the winemakers I work with at Herrmann York Wines in nearby Redlands CA believed that the precocious Lonely Bear fruit (shown above) were worth the effort to harvest, barrel, and bottle. But we didn’t count on the wildfire.
As our first Harvest Day approached, I assumed the worst: a “lost harvest.” A week earlier, the Line Fire ignited in nearby Highland CA. It eventually burned 43,978 acres, mostly in the San Bernardino Mountains to the north. But the southeastern edge of the fire perimeter was within about five miles of us by September 12. Acrid smoke blanketed Yucaipa. Although I didn’t see ash on the grapes, I assumed that they would be ruined by smoke taint. Not necessarily, my friends Garrett York and Dustin Hermann reassured me. Immediately after the harvest, they crushed the grapes and discarded the tainted skins. The remaining juice, we hoped, could become a drinkable rosé.
Eleven months later, Garrett and Dusty presented Val and me with a case of Salvare rosé. “Salvare” is Italian for rescue; it honors Hermann York’s skill and faith in salvaging this surprisingly pleasing summer wine from the Line Fire. Before all that drama we had planned a red blend, but Salvare has proved so popular we’ve decided to make another rosé from the 2025 harvest.
Meanwhile, you’ll often find me in the vineyard. You can see me at work in the Apple Maps image below. The Maxar satellite imagery they used that day shows me, with my garden tractor, at work in Lonely Bear, preparing next year’s crop.