Monthly Archives: August 2012

Typical Day

I realize that many of you do not really understand what I have been up to here in Japan.  You realize I am here doing research, at that research in the forest, but what am I truly up too.

I’ll give you an outline of an average day here in Japan.

I wake up around 5:30 when the light starts streaming into my room at the cottage, however, my alarm does not go off till 6:00 so I lie in bed and doze for about 30 minutes until my alarm clock actually goes off.  Then I get up out of bed, fold it up for the day and get dressed in the clothes that I have been wearing everyday in the field.  Before I leave my room if it is not raining I open my window so that the room stays cool through the day and then go down the hall to the dinning area to eat breakfast.

uniform

Horrible picture but it is difficult to take too many self portraits while in the shrubs.  This photo is to show my ‘uniform’ for the summer.  The only official thing about it is my arm band which says something of the sort of Shinshu University Research, I think it says more but I do not know what.  The arm band is great, though frequently I just have it attached to my backpack.  The reason it is great is because it answers many questions of people that see me out and about.

Breakfast is one of two very similar things.  1. Oatmeal or 2. Rice.  The oatmeal is not quite like oatmeal in the USA but it does the job.  On occasion I run out of oatmeal and then I cook extra rice at dinner for breakfast.  Into this grain I add peanut butter and honey.  Though I must say the peanut butter is really nothing like what we eat in the US, it is a source of morning protein.  With this I drink a cup of instant Nestle coffee with lots of milk powder.  I am not really that fond of the instant coffee but the caffeine is nice.  Odd as it might be the Instant Nestle Coffee’s label is in Spanish with a Japanese sticker on top.  Lots of western or American food here is in Spanish.

After breakfast I fill up my water bottles, make sure lunch and snacks are packed.  Then I go to the drying room for my gators and measuring pole before heading for the door.  At the door I put my boots and gators on.  The last thing I do before I leave is say itte rasshai (So long or I’ll go and come back).  Then I start my hike.

The hike to my field sites depends on where I am going, all are easily accessible.  Takahashi Sensei has established 125 plots on Norikura, and he has done so with the forethought that he will not always be young and able but that he will continue to want to study and monitor the forest as he ages.  Knowing this most of his plots is within easy access from either the road up Norikura or along one of the hiking trails.  Most plots are within a 30 minute walk from the cabin.

If I am in a Haimatsu or Kaba forest I make sure I am wearing my long sleeves.  This is a precaution not for the bugs, though my collar is normally popped to keep the large horseflies at bay, but for the branches.  My arms are littered with cuts and bruises from walking through shrubs.  Some mornings I do not realize it for it is hot and I have either a tee-shirt or my sleeves rolled up, but after an hour or two of bushwhacking my forearms are either bleeding or stinging from the shrubs.  So, I roll them down or change shirts.  You would think I would remember, but the morning hike is hot.

I have a map of all of the plots as well as their GPS coordinates, though this does not always make them easy to find.   Plots are denoted by ‘number tape’ that is thick flagging with numbers typed on to it, that have been stapled to trees.  Additionally, each plot is 10 x10m in size and at each corner is a piece of PVC piping.  This piping is however, not always easy to find.

For my research I am using point centre quarter methods, which means that I divide each plot up into 4 quarters or segments.  I put a stake (branch with flagging) in at the centre of each plot.  Thus if I can find two of the four stakes I can take an azimuth and find the centre of the plot knowing the proper distance to the middle knowing the proper distance to the middle using Pythagoreans theorem.  So I don’t in truth have to find all of the corners, which is really nice.

 PCQ

Once I establish the centre of the plot, I record the azimuth to the plot in case I need to return, so that I can find the same trees.  Then I attach a measuring tape to a tent stake.  In each of the quarters I measure the distance to the nearest tree greater than 2 meters tall (Kaba and Momi) or greater than 4cm at base (haimatsu).  In addition to measuring the distance to the nearest tree I also record the azimuth to that tree and the distance and azimuth to its nearest neighbor.  That is right trees have neighbors, they are very competitive with one another and try to interfere in each others lives.

TreeMeasure.jpg

The diameter at base and at breast height (1.37m) is measured and recorded for all trees as well as their position in the canopy.  Are they dominant, co dominate, intermediate or suppressed.  Additional parameters are taken from the nearest trees in each quarter such as tree height, height to lowest branches, diameter of crown at it’s widest and perpendicular to that.  Lastly, a tree core is taken from each of the nearest trees that is greater than 4 cm at base.

Now I know some of you know what a tree core is but not all, so let me briefly explain.  A tree core is taken from the tree by using a tree borer (insert photo).  Basically, it is a hollow drill that is manually drilled into the tree.  Once the centre of the tree has been reached a spoon (not a kitchen spoon, but one for this purpose) is use to extract the core from the inside of the borer.  The tree core is then put into a straw and labeled and the borer is extracted from the tree.

Tree Coring

Out of date photo of me coring a tree, this photo is from 2007 in Northern Sweden.  You should be able to get the idea from the photo.  If you know anything about coring trees, please disregard the technique in the photo for I had a broken collar bone at the time and was only demonstrating how to core to my undergraduate assistant.

Though when I write it out it does not seem like it should take that long plots normally take 1-2 hours a piece, sometimes more if I have difficulty in finding the plot or coring the trees or if it raining.

I work until I get hungry for lunch anytime between 10 am and 1pm, then I eat.  Lunch is leftovers from dinner.  Dinner is purposefully made to big so that I also have lunch.  I also have rice crackers, fruit and some candy.  Then back to work.  I keep going until about 6-6:30 in the evening and then I pack up and head back to the cabin getting back around 6:30-7pm.  Before going inside I try to shed as many fir and pine needles as well as twigs off my person, letting my hair down things always fall out.

Upon my arrival I say ‘Tadaima’, which always is a great feeling.  If there are other guests at the cottage I say ‘Kobanwa’ or ‘Konichiwa’ before they start talking to me and I don’t know what they say.  If that happens the cabin owner or his staff tells them to let me go put my stuff down before talking with me.  They know that when I return in the evenings I am exhausted and that it takes a little bit for me to be able to communicate.  Food helps.  If there are no guests I just go about my own business.

I put my measuring pole and gators back into the drying room till morning, change out of my field clothes and go to the dining room.  It’s dinner time, well, it’s time to cook dinner and lunch.  I didn’t really know what people ate in the mountains, and as of yet at the cottage none of the other visitors have cooked their own food they have bought from the cottage.  So what do I eat for two of my meals a day? Basically fried rice, but different than what we would call that from in America.  I cook up rice and put a packet of beans and other grains in with it.  When the rice is almost cooked I cut up some dried fish (I don’t know what kind, but it is good and smoked) and throw it in to hydrate.  When the rice is done, I stir fry some veggies.  Typically, bell peppers and eggplant though sometimes also carrot and zucchini.  The zucchini though does not taste very good the next day so I have stopped that.  When the veggies are almost done I scramble two eggs and put them in too.  Once this is all cooked I mix it into the rice and add a couple of packets of flavoring.  I have no clue what the flavors are but I do like some better than others.  I try looking at the pictures for help in understanding.  If I don’t like the flavor, I’ll add some soy sauce.

Lunch!

Lunch! Dinner only looks different for it is in a bowl and steaming.

That is dinner.  After dinner I clean the pots with paper towels and eat a piece of fruit.  By this time it is normally about 8 pm.  I go back to my room and either read, enter data (not fun) or I do my favorite activity of punching holes into straws.  Yeap, punching holes into straws.  This is so that the cores can dry more efficiently and not mold.  First I take the straws out of their plastic wrappers, then I use a hole puncher to punch holes along the straw.

At 9 pm the generator is turned off and all but emergency lights.  I read with my headlamp until maybe 9:30 or 10 pm and then I pass out till morning to start the routine all over again.

Forests of Norikura

The forest (mori) is dominated by three species of trees on Norikura: Kaba (Birch), Momi (Fir) and Haimatsu (creeping pine).  The lowest elevation plots and nearest to the cabin are momi forest with some Kaba and Spruce.  There is an occasional Haimatsue tree in the area but mainly on large rocks that appear to be glacial erratic s except for the fact that Norikura is a volcano, but large rocks none the less.

Haimatsu on rock

 Haimatsu growing on a rock.

momi forest

The momi forest is dominated by momi, but also has kaba, hiamatsu and some spruce in it.

The Momi forest is relatively open and easily walked through standing up, this cannot be said for the other forest types.  The understory shrubs are largely composed of Alder and Rowan (Sorbus).  Above the Momi forest is the Kaba forest.  The Kaba forest is dominated by birch with some momi and lots of haimatsu.  There are fewer shrubs in the Kaba forest than the Momi forest but that is because much of the open canopy space is filled by haimatsu.  However, when the shrubs exist they are a combination of Alder, Sorbus, and Rhododendron.

kaba_forest_shrubs

 View inside the kaba forest, lots of sorbus

Okii_kaba

There are some really big kaba in the forest.

Above the Kaba forest is the Haimatsu forest.  The Haimatsu is still a new thing for me.  It is about 2-3 meters tall on average and most of the stems lead downhill.  The stems reroot  both whenever they touch the ground and adventitious into the air, in hops to connect with the ground during the winter, perhaps.  Older portions rot out so it is hard to say where the trees begin.  Many trees might once have been part of the same individual but really it is hard to identify.  So we try our best and make up rules to go by.  I have been following Dr. Takahashi’s which is where ever the stem was last rooted is where the stem is from, though sometimes this does not seem satisfying it has proven handy for sometimes I spend 30minutes just looking at a tree trying to tell where it came from.

haimatsu roots

Adventitious roots

haimatsu inside

View from inside the hiamatsu forest

haimatsu outside

View from the outside of the forest.

Haimatsu like many other pine species that grow at high elevation have small cones with seeds that are transported not by wind but by birds.  The North American version of this bird is the Clark’s Nutcracker, the Japanese version is found throughout Eurasia.  Thus it is named the Eurasian Nutcracker or Spotted Nutcracker.

Spotted Nutcracker

It was not until late in my stay at Norikura that I asked what Haimatsu means for Hai = yes and matsu = pine, does that make it a yes pine? Yes it is a pine but that is not what the name means.  Originally, the name was Haumatsu, hau= creep.  But so it means creeping pine, but somewhere along the evolution of the name Haumatsu became Haimatsu.  Though creeping pine makes much more sense than yes pine.

 

Clouds of all types

A series of photos of clouds that I have taken thus far while in Japan.  Due to the location of Matsumoto in a dry continental valley with tall mountains on either side and with weather patterns from both the Japanese Sea and Pacific Ocean influencing the area, some pretty amazing clouds form, dissipate and form again in a different manner.  Enjoy.

Clouds16Clouds15

Clouds14

Above: Clouds as a thunderstorm rolled in over head.

Clouds13Clouds12 Cloud11

Above: The cabin in the mist

Clouds7Clouds9Clouds8Clouds5Clouds4Clound3Clouds2Clouds1Clouds6

 

Jappanese Living

Where I live

A few people have asked about my living arrangements here in Japan so I thought I would give you a quick tour.  I have been spending my time spent between Matusmoto and Norikura.

Matusmoto – International Student Housing

In Matsumoto I live in the International Student House (I’ll get a photo of the building and add it when I have a chance).  My room is one of the single rooms in the building which is 16 square meters or about 170 square feet.  Thus not that big, considering this it is impressive that I have a kitchen and a bathroom in this small space.

Kitchen: sink, cupboards, two burner stove/ toaster, refrigerator (in main room).  Interestingly, hot water heaters don’t seem to be the same here as in the US or Sweden for that matter.  The little box in this image to the right of the dish soap turns on the water heater.  It is only when this is turned on that hot water is available.  I am not sure exactly how it is heated (electricity or gas).  Also you can set the temperature on the heater.

Kitchen

Study Area: desk, closet/shelves.  Just enough space to work on my computer, sand cores if necessary and store my clothing and few books.

DeskCloset

Bed and Refrigerator

Don’t let my sleeping bag on the bed fool you, it is hot in Matsumoto, though apparently not as hot as other places.  Thus, beds are made specifically for the season.  The stripped ‘sheet’ you see here is actually a towel that is used as a sheet but is absorbs sweat better than a cotton sheet.  Under that is a bed cover or bed pad that we use in the US under sheets, here it is the bottom sheet.  It is quite thick again to absorb sweat and keep the mattress clean.  The brown pillow is a bit hard but does the job.  I am not sure what it is filled with, possibly buckwheat chaff, I am not sure.

Bed

Bathroom: toilet, sink, shower/tub (more tub than shower).  I have apparently not taken a picture of it. But the most interesting aspects are that you have to take a step up into the bathroom and that there is a lever on the sink that if you flip it water then flows to the shower head.

View from my window/door/balcony.  The view is of the Delicia 2 (grocery store) parking lot.  I have a laundry line and pole to dry my clothes on.  Unless it has been raining close dry fairly quickly.

Room View

Norikura – Kuraigahara Hiker’s Cabin

http://www.kuraigahara.jp/ – Google translate does an ok job with this website if you want to check it out.

The cabin is located on the side of Mt. Norikura.  To access the cabin, takes three buses and one train ride from where I live, but if I make all of my transfers promptly takes only about 3 hours.  After taking the bus to Matsumoto station, I get onto the Kamikochi line train and take it to it’s terminus at the Shimashimas station.  On the way the train passes through an agricultural district full of rice, apples and watermelons.  The town of Hata is famous for it’s watermelons.  From Shimashimas station a bus is taken up into the mountains, past a series of three (or more) dams and through a number of long tunnels.  The bus keeps on going up to Norikura kugen (Norikura Heights) and to Kanko Centre Mae.  Kanko Centre is a large parking area with some gift shops, onsens (hot springs) and access to skiing during the winter.  Soon after Kanko Centre public vehicles are restricted and buses, taxis, hiking and bicycles are the only way to get up the mountain.

 

Cabin
My room.  I think it is bigger than my place in Matsumoto.
This room has a ‘consento’ in it.  I was very confused on the meaning of ‘consento’ at first, for I thought I was being asked if I wanted to consent to stay in the room.  Which of course I did.  However, ‘consento’ means electrical plug and they gave me a room with a plug so that I can charge batteries and my computer while staying up at the cabin.

Gear in RoomI keep all of my stuff in this corner, for no particular reason.

BeddingHere are my bed linens.  One of the great things about the cabin is that it is cool enough at night that I can sleep on down bedding with a thick fleece like blanket.  The pillow is a bag of beans or something of the sort which takes getting used to but works well.
Every night I lay out my bed and the first thing I do in the morning is fold it back up.  I do this mainly because I am not sure if I am suppose to but feel like I should so I do.

Heated Tables
Out side of my room is a common area.  The sitting area portion is raised on a tadamia mate.  On it are these tables (sometimes just one, depends on the number of guests).  When it is cold the tables are turned on.  For there is a little electrical heater under them, the table top is placed over a blanket and cushions are placed around the table.  When it is cold out you sit at these tables with your legs underneath and the blanket on you keeping the warm air trapped with in.  It is quite nice.

Slippers.  In the cabin you need slippers, as you do in many places and parts of life in Japan.  Here are 3 of the 4 pairs of slippers that I wear on a daily basis while at the cabin.

House SlippersHouse slippers.  These slippers are worn from entrance to the interior of the wooden portion of the cabin.  A different pair is worn around the outside of the cabin and in the dinning hall but I don’t have a picture of that pair.  The house slippers are worn from the door of my room, but not in my room, to the toilet, sink, and to the dinning hall.

Bathroom Slippers

Bathroom Slippers.  Yeap, there are special slippers for the bathroom.  These are probably the most uncomfortable of the slippers, but that is mainly for they feel too small.  You take your house slippers off either at the door on the outside or just inside on this piece of plywood.  The bathroom is a collection of pit toilets, to the right is a line of urinals and to the left are three toilets (1 western that is warmed, and two Japanese style toilets).

Wet Room Slippers

Drying Room Slippers.  These slippers are only worn in this small room that is used for drying clothing and anything that is wet.  I store some of my field gear in this room as well as hang up my rain gear and gaitors.

I am realizing that I am missing many pictures of the cabin, which I will get this coming week.  For instance, the dinning room is a big room with long tables and a heating stove in the middle.  I have no pictures of the owner of the cabin or his staff, which will also be remedied.   And I will write more about them too.